farthest right climb with a challenging start off the deck and a crimpy finale at the top.
Summer 2011: Joel Schopp replaced the anchors and re-bolted all of the bolts. He agrees that a bolt ought to be placed between 1 and 2. Thanks Joel.
Submitted by: kvochatzer on 2009-09-08
Last Modified: 2011-08-24
Route ID: 87117
10b is a joke right? Just pulling the moves to clip the first bolt are easily 10c/d moves, the middle part is easy but the run out between #1 and #2 is dangerous. Ending is tenuous, slopey and requires a good bit of finger strength. If it weren't for the great rests in the middle I'd easily 11a this route. As it is I'd call it scary 10d.
This route is not 10b. 5.10 climbers who get on this route will in the best case bring a stick clip for the first bolt, keep it together to the second bolt, and after hangdogging get to the top. In the worst case 5.10 climbers will not bring a stick clip and fall going to the first bolt or worse, make the first bolt and fall going to the second bolt and deck. An upgrade is needed on this route if for no other reason then to make people think twice before jumping on it half-cocked because this one is actually dangerous.
This was my first climb on Beehive wall. It felt difficult for the grade near the first bolt and for a few moves up top. It was cleaner and more solid than I expected, though the second bolt is solidly in decking range.
go out and give it a try... not the easiest lead ever not knowing anything about it.
2009/11/15: Wow, has it been that long ago that I first ascended this climb? Returned with Annette on what was meant to be a climb-free Sunday. Well, we couldn't resist getting out on this 78 F day in mid-Nov so I introduced her to the Beehive. Bolts are pretty old and we had to clean off a few rocks along the line. We sling a small tree between #1 and 2 bolts for a little extra back up on the rusty first bolt.