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Hedonistic Urges - 5.12b

Average Rating = 4.00/5 Average Rating : 4.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 7
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (1)
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Eddie Pain
Rock (Sport)
G
widely spaced bolts to anchors
60
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.12b
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 3.00/5
  Rock Quality 3.00/5
  Scenery 3.00/5
  Fun Factor 4.00/5

Description:

pull overhang and then bulge.

Submitted by: 512mglass on 2006-11-18
Last Modified: 2014-02-14
Views: 1037
Route ID: 81163

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1 Ascent Recorded

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Ratings
  Difficulty 5.12b
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: jb2100 on 2013-10-24 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Soft but really fun

Sent 2nd go after cleaning holds at the top and sussing out beta. I just got back from a weekend at Hueco and I spent more time sending V3's there than I did on the opening boulder problem of this route. The opening of this route is closer to V3 or V4. Of course since it's only 6 or 7 moves that's still a pretty hard boulder problem to encounter on a route, but you'll find harder bouldering on Flinch or Grinch at Reimers. The opening boulder problem to Scorpion Child at Reimers is way harder, as is the opening boulder problem to Spanish Fly.
The boulder problem start on this was about as hard as the start of Rain Dance.
Considering that after the boulder start of the route you get a no hands, sit-down rest on this climb it's hard to include the difficulty at the end in the route grade since you can recover completely at the no-hands rest. So it's sort of like climbing a V4, then resting completely and climbing an 11b. With that in mind, if you only consider the difficulty of the boulder problem when calculating the grade of the route (since it's harder than the rest of the route and climbing the rest of the route can be done separately after resting) this thing clocks in at hard 12a, soft 12b. Certainly a boulderers climb, but it's just not as hard as any 12c at Reimers that I can think of.
Apart from the grade, I want to point out that the opening boulder problem on this climb is insanely fun. It's too bad the landing would be hard to protect because it'd be more fun as just a boulder problem than the whole route.

Added: 2013-10-24