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Suhler Route - 5.10b

Average Rating = 3.33/5 Average Rating : 3.33 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 9
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (3)
Premier Sponsor:
Tom Suhler, David Cardosa
Rock (Sport)
G
1
4 bolts and chains, you can sling a small tree between #1 and 2 to eliminate run out and decking potential going to #2.
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10c
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure 4.00/5
  Rock Quality 3.33/5
  Scenery 3.00/5
  Fun Factor 3.67/5

Description:

Originally named Cardosa Route in the old Austin Rock guidebook. When I prepared Austin Climbing, Dave and Tom said name it Suhler route. farthest right climb with a challenging start off the deck and a crimpy finale at the top. Summer 2011: Joel Schopp replaced the anchors and re-bolted all of the bolts. He agrees that a bolt ought to be placed between 1 and 2. Thanks Joel.

Submitted by: kvochatzer on 2009-09-08
Last Modified: 2014-02-14
Views: 1089
Route ID: 87117

3 Ascents Recorded

GoRecord an ascent

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10d
  Safety Rating R
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: jb2100 on 2012-12-28 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars Ha!

10b is a joke right? Just pulling the moves to clip the first bolt are easily 10c/d moves, the middle part is easy but the run out between #1 and #2 is dangerous. Ending is tenuous, slopey and requires a good bit of finger strength. If it weren't for the great rests in the middle I'd easily 11a this route. As it is I'd call it scary 10d.

This route is not 10b. 5.10 climbers who get on this route will in the best case bring a stick clip for the first bolt, keep it together to the second bolt, and after hangdogging get to the top. In the worst case 5.10 climbers will not bring a stick clip and fall going to the first bolt or worse, make the first bolt and fall going to the second bolt and deck. An upgrade is needed on this route if for no other reason then to make people think twice before jumping on it half-cocked because this one is actually dangerous.

Added: 2012-12-28

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10d
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: Scirocco on 2011-07-02 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars cool route

This was my first climb on Beehive wall. It felt difficult for the grade near the first bolt and for a few moves up top. It was cleaner and more solid than I expected, though the second bolt is solidly in decking range.

Added: 2011-07-02

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10b
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: kvochatzer on 2007-04-01 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars rarely climbed and easiest route on Beehive Wall

go out and give it a try... not the easiest lead ever not knowing anything about it.

2009/11/15: Wow, has it been that long ago that I first ascended this climb? Returned with Annette on what was meant to be a climb-free Sunday. Well, we couldn't resist getting out on this 78 F day in mid-Nov so I introduced her to the Beehive. Bolts are pretty old and we had to clean off a few rocks along the line. We sling a small tree between #1 and 2 bolts for a little extra back up on the rusty first bolt.

Added: 2007-07-17