First go of the day. Second try overall. I don't know if I'm quite at the level of Onsighting 11b's yet but they don't typically feel so hard. The climb flows pretty well and is fairly obvious right up until the end where the jugs disappear and everything turns into crimps. Clip from the mono (which if you have fat fingers like me you won't be able to get any more than the first knuckle into), then feel around the top for sloping dishes, crimps, throw for the jug on top, then have a tough little mantle to finish it out. And when you do all of that you look at the chains and you see that there are no carabiners on them. :p All in all this is an awesome route which should probably see more traffic than it does. Probably deserves an 11c rating also IMO.
No way this is 11b. the clip off the mono and off the sloping crimp over the last roof are way harder than the rating gives it. This is a longish route for the green belt with sustained climbing to a cruxy top. If you fall at the top, be prepared to have some pretty bad scrapes. clip the first bolt with a long runner or you risk the wrath of drag during the crux.
not sure about the 11 rating on this one. i've only tried it once, but my finger wouldn't fit in the mono right finger pocket just before you top out. anyone have a different beta? still, pulling the roof halfway up is quite smooth.