Skip to Content

Iranian Arms Deal - 5.10d

Average Rating = 3.62/5 Average Rating : 3.62 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 5
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (18)
Premier Sponsor:
Keith Guillory, David Renburg
Rock
G
5 bolts to anchors.
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10b
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 3.57/5
  Rock Quality 3.71/5
  Scenery 3.57/5
  Fun Factor 3.71/5

Description:

Climb past 2d bolt and moves left. One of the more popular routes on this section.

Texas Limestone lists the rating as 5.8, and TexasClimbers lists it as 5.10. I've changed the rating to 5.10, since I don't see how to do the start at all, especially as a 5.8. I've added a photo that shows it's "a little thin". If anyone has the beta on the start, please post it! Edited by Austinclmbr 5/9/06...possible two moves to start, one is a right hand side pull to mantle the ledge, if reach is issue, try left hand gaston to mantle. Both are 5.10 to learn, but 5.8 once you have the beta down.

Submitted by: austinclmbr on 2006-05-09
Last Modified: 2014-02-14
Views: 1348
Route ID: 7653

18 Ascents Recorded

GoRecord an ascent
GoRead all 18 ascent notes

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10b
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: annette on 2011-06-19 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Balance

This route has similar moves as the start of Fern Bar, but more fun. The whole route is much more enjoyable than fern bar.

Added: 2012-01-17

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10b
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Flash Flash ascent by: jb2100 on 2011-04-08 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars Tough start

But no way it's a 10d like it's listed in the "Austin Rock" guidebook. Especially if you wanna call Birdland a 10d, the difference between those routes is like night and day.

Added: 2011-04-08

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10c
  Safety Rating G
Red Point Red Point ascent by: justroberto on 2009-05-21 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars hmm

maybe i'm missing something, but i don't see a way that's any easier than about 10c at the start...

Added: 2009-05-21

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10b
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: kvochatzer on 2006-10-04 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars very thin move over 1st bolt

difficult first moves and balanced top out

2009/02/25 - finally returned and nailed the start on this. i gaston the upper hold left-handed and keep the right on the small grimp down low, raise up the right foot to a rail out right and then reach right handed for the shelf.

Added: 2008-10-10

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10b
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: blackwell on 2000-02-27 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars 5.8D if you do the direct start

Deadpoint to a poor gaston for the first move - the rest is easy climbing on buckets. Set a toprope and let any beginners climb the crack to the left and finish fromt the big ledge

Added: 2008-02-27

... Read all 18 ascent notes