a natural link utilizing several small nuts and cams, single anchor at top Or TR from thumbdance anchors.
31MAY2009: Retro-bolted as a sport climb.
Long reach past and right of the 1st bolt up the shallow arete. It's a Gus Fruh kind of move and climb in general.
Submitted by: blackwell4 on 2009-09-08
Route ID: 25319
This whole route felt more like a 5.9 to me than Heir Apparent which is just the left of it. I guess that crux is height dependent but I don't think it's hard enough to bring a 5.8 climb up to the level of 10b.
Onsight felt good, especially with no warm up and the tricky way to maneuver up to the second bolt. The left foot in the cubby-hole is very unique and yields a good foot torque while leaning off to the right shoulder to reach up high along the arete with the left hand. It's an interesting move!
Fairly height dependent move; certainly more of a crux for less than tall climbers.
Cheers Tommy and Luke for putting this old climb back into commission.