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Skank hole - 5.9

Average Rating = 3.50/5 Average Rating : 3.50 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 2
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (4)
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Kirk Holladay, Alvino Pon
Rock
G
1
2 or 3 bolts and anchors
40
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10b
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 3.33/5
  Rock Quality 3.67/5
  Scenery 4.00/5
  Fun Factor 3.33/5

Description:

40' tall, slightly overhanging. 4thclass climbing to first ledge, 5.8- climbing to second ledge. Clip & Chalk here. After the second ledge get your arms in that crack (accepts fist jams midway and above) and move up to the "Skank Hole". Traverse slightly right and make three or four desperate crimps/halfcrimps to the top.

Submitted by: 512mglass on 2007-10-12
Views: 1229
Route ID: 78504

4 Ascents Recorded

GoRecord an ascent

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
Top Rope Top Rope ascent by: justroberto on 2012-03-02 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars -

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Added: 2012-03-05

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11a
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Hang Dog Hang Dog ascent by: Hogge on 2011-05-10 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars cool route; hardest 5.9 in the world.

My partner put it this way: "If these two routes are 5.9's, they're the hardest 5.9's in the world." I rate them 5.11a by Reimers standards and 10d by greenbelt. Reviewer 1 entered 5.9 but wrote that's sandbagged so I'll add 11a here.

Added: 2011-05-13

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10b
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: Scirocco on 2010-04-03 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars good climb if cleaned up

This was my first time at the wall and I was surprised to see other climbers on Bloody Butt to the left. I agree with the first reviewer about this being quite sandbagged by central tx standards, at least in its present condition. Even if the dust and grime were cleaned up, it would require interesting route-finding and thin crimps on sometimes overhanging rock. The beta was fun to figure out, though the first time around I was forced to traverse right more than I'd like before the anchors. There is a better sequence that goes straight up from the 'skank hole.'
I'd like to see this wall cleaned up and would definitely be back if it was. It was good to see some new climbs, and the dirt added a challenge I wasn't used to. I knocked a coconut sized foot off the climb to the right, but the rock on this one felt better, at least after the first bolt.

Added: 2010-04-04

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Top Rope Top Rope ascent by: Squatchmo on 2007-09-20 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars This was my project climb

When first starting out. We built rap anchors on trees, rappeled down to the sport anchors, built our anchor, rapped the rest of the way down, and then cut it loose from the trees, letting the rope drop into the top anchor. Clumsy, but worked.

It's a sketchy overhanging crack climb, with a crux (my crux) involving a pinky jam that tears you up. It took four months, but I've sent the thing three times on top rope. It's an obscure little wall, overhanging and I think 5.9 is lowballing it... This thing makes "Over Easy" and "Flintstones" seem like 5.8's.

Now, to lead it. Kudos to Kirk and Alvin, your wall has a secret fan club.

Added: 2007-09-20