Routes : North America : United States : Texas : South Central Texas : Barton Creek Greenbelt : New Wall : Schoolboy Fantaties (aka Schoolboys)
Schoolboy Fantaties (aka Schoolboys) - 5.11a
Route sequence (left to right): 5
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (10)
Premier Sponsor:
|
Greg Brooks, Robert Middleton
Rock
G
4 bolts to anchors
|
|
||||||||||||||
Description:
4 bolts, to the chains. The crux is getting to the #2 bolt. Depending on the humidity of the day and the "slime factor" of the critical right hand pocket, this climb has been rated as hard as 5.12a
Submitted by: blackwell4 on 2005-10-24
Last Modified: 2011-01-25
Views: 959
Route ID: 15518
Most Recent Photo
|
|
10 Ascents Recorded
Record an ascent
Read all 10 ascent notes
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.11a |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure | ![]() |
| Rock Quality | ![]() |
| Scenery | ![]() |
| Fun Factor | ![]() |
cool crux move
Beta spoiler: get the underclings, right foot under the roof and dropknee to reach right hand high hidden crimp. LF then jams under the roof. Next hand sequence isn't easy but I don't recall it. It's made easier with a left foot heel hook, so in a short span your feet are doing alot of fun stuff.
Added: 2011-06-09
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.10d |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure | ![]() |
| Rock Quality | ![]() |
| Scenery | ![]() |
| Fun Factor | ![]() |
First lead this trip
A lot better this time around
Added: 2010-10-04
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.11a |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure | ![]() |
| Rock Quality | ![]() |
| Scenery | ![]() |
| Fun Factor | ![]() |
Last Climb
Fun route
Added: 2010-10-04
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.11b |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure | ![]() |
| Rock Quality | ![]() |
| Scenery | ![]() |
| Fun Factor | ![]() |
negative 5 stars
got it after 2 tries. not inspiring in any way. just some moves off some crimps. and it was humid as hell today. i made it a campus move to make it more fun.
Added: 2009-02-26
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.11a |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure | ![]() |
| Rock Quality | ![]() |
| Scenery | ![]() |
| Fun Factor | ![]() |
New take on a new wall classic
couldnt get it the first time up, but made it up a few days later repositioning my hands and changing foot sequence
Added: 2009-01-25





Previous




