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Schoolboy Fantaties (aka Schoolboys) - 5.11a

Average Rating = 3.29/5 Average Rating : 3.29 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 5
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (10)
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Rock
G
4 bolts to anchors
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11a
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 3.33/5
  Rock Quality 3.83/5
  Scenery 3.83/5
  Fun Factor 3.50/5

Description:

4 bolts, to the chains. The crux is getting to the #2 bolt. Depending on the humidity of the day and the "slime factor" of the critical right hand pocket, this climb has been rated as hard as 5.12a

Submitted by: blackwell4 on 2005-10-24
Last Modified: 2011-01-25
Views: 1161
Route ID: 15518

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10 Ascents Recorded

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Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11a
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Top Rope Top Rope ascent by: Hogge on 2011-06-07 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars cool crux move

Beta spoiler: get the underclings, right foot under the roof and dropknee to reach right hand high hidden crimp. LF then jams under the roof. Next hand sequence isn't easy but I don't recall it. It's made easier with a left foot heel hook, so in a short span your feet are doing alot of fun stuff.

Added: 2011-06-09

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10d
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: jacardona on 2010-10-01 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars First lead this trip

A lot better this time around

Added: 2010-10-04

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11a
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: jacardona on 2010-08-18 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Last Climb

Fun route

Added: 2010-10-04

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11b
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: mandryd on 2009-02-26 (View Climbing Log)

1 out of 5 stars negative 5 stars

got it after 2 tries. not inspiring in any way. just some moves off some crimps. and it was humid as hell today. i made it a campus move to make it more fun.

Added: 2009-02-26

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11a
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Top Rope Top Rope ascent by: princewm98 on 2009-01-25 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars New take on a new wall classic

couldnt get it the first time up, but made it up a few days later repositioning my hands and changing foot sequence

Added: 2009-01-25

... Read all 10 ascent notes