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Luminaire Noir - 5.11b popular

Average Rating = 3.71/5 Average Rating : 3.71 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 10
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (7)
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Vega and Vochatzer
Rock (Sport)
G
1
4 bolts and 2 double-ring anchors
35
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11b
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 3.20/5
  Rock Quality 3.80/5
  Scenery 3.00/5
  Fun Factor 4.20/5

Description:

Very thin, small crimps on vertical face for the first 2 bolts. Easy climbing up the next 2 bolts, then a moderate move to the anchors. If you like thin and vertical, then you'll like this. If your idea of climbing is on jugs and big feet, move on because you will whimper like a puppy on its first night in a new home or one that just walked across a Texas black top in the dead of the summer. Nicknamed "Lick the Paw" or "Whimper", but the real name was given to it by Ralph called "Luminaire Noir ".

Submitted by: kvochatzer on 2009-05-20
Last Modified: 2014-02-14
Views: 1734
Route ID: 99584

7 Ascents Recorded

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Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11a
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: chuffinator on 2011-09-28 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars fun

Climbed it with the broken hold. Same grade. No need to buy the broken piece from the guy who is holding it ransom.

Added: 2011-09-28

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11a
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: jb2100 on 2011-06-26 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars Thin, Sharp, Easy??

I'm not expert at grades, but I felt like this route's difficulty will depend on the type of climber you are more than other routes. Boulderers will probably think this is the easiest 11b they've ever gotten on whereas pure sport climbers will probably think it's soft but still 11b. I'd personally call this 11a.

Added: 2011-06-26

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Top Rope Top Rope ascent by: chrisjmckinley on 2011-02-15 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Fun, thin, tough.

Fun right hand Gaston move after the first bolt. Date is approximate. Climbed it pre-broken flake. Have to figure out new beta to get back up it.

Added: 2011-04-13

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
Red Point Red Point ascent by: justroberto on 2011-03-16 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars -

-

Added: 2011-03-16

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11b
  Safety Rating G
Red Point Red Point ascent by: cjbottaro on 2010-02-28 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars wimper, hehe

Yeah, those crimps at the beginning are pretty painful. Glad it got a consensus rating of 11b because it certainly didn't feel like an 11a... :)

Added: 2010-02-28

... Read all 7 ascent notes