Average Rating : 3.50 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 10
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (4)
Stick clip the high 1st bolt from the nearby ledge at the pit's access. Start in the dihedral. (Starting right of the dihedral is a 5.10d variation "The Sixth Gorgon".)
The key low flake has glue reenforcement, but it will probably break off anyway. Gorgons from mythology and D&D were nasty beasts whose breath turned humans to stone.
Submitted by: Hogge on 2008-04-28
Route ID: 90838
Rachel remembers pulling the crux static. I tried it static, didn't get it, but it felt like it would be about 5.11c. I did an awkward little dyno and it felt easier than a couple of the 5.11b's at Reimers, plus basically one move. Ryan is 6'3" and probably deadpointed it; he felt it's 5.10d. Probably time will show that this crux is very height dependent. My guess is 5.11a for average height climbers.
Above the crux the opposite cliff is close behind the climber. A fall onto it would likely happen from broken holds or belayer error rather than leader's moves. I haven't yet seen an opporetunity to move or add a bolt to provide better protection.
The crux and top are interesting and fun. Throw a party in the middle.