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Seven Gorgons Breathing - 5.11a

Average Rating = 3.50/5 Average Rating : 3.50 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 10
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (4)
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Rachel Harris
Rock (Sport)
G
1
5 draws
45
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11a
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 4.00/5
  Rock Quality 2.50/5
  Scenery 3.50/5
  Fun Factor 3.50/5

Description:

Stick clip the high 1st bolt from the nearby ledge at the pit's access. Start in the dihedral. (Starting right of the dihedral is a 5.10d variation "The Sixth Gorgon".) The key low flake has glue reenforcement, but it will probably break off anyway. Gorgons from mythology and D&D were nasty beasts whose breath turned humans to stone.

Submitted by: Hogge on 2008-04-28
Views: 496
Route ID: 90838

4 Ascents Recorded

GoRecord an ascent

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11a
  Safety Rating G
Onsight Onsight ascent by: kvochatzer on 2013-08-16 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars thin

balance and crimps

Added: 2013-09-16

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11a
  Safety Rating G
Top Rope Top Rope ascent by: Brianleepainter on 2012-06-29 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Challenging start

Was challenging at beginning to static the move. It's slippery down there in the canyon.

Added: 2012-06-29

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11a
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: annette on 2011-07-04 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars Good climb

Stick clip

Added: 2012-01-17

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11a
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: Hogge on 2007-12-03 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars 2nd ascent; comments on grade

Rachel remembers pulling the crux static. I tried it static, didn't get it, but it felt like it would be about 5.11c. I did an awkward little dyno and it felt easier than a couple of the 5.11b's at Reimers, plus basically one move. Ryan is 6'3" and probably deadpointed it; he felt it's 5.10d. Probably time will show that this crux is very height dependent. My guess is 5.11a for average height climbers.

Above the crux the opposite cliff is close behind the climber. A fall onto it would likely happen from broken holds or belayer error rather than leader's moves. I haven't yet seen an opporetunity to move or add a bolt to provide better protection.

The crux and top are interesting and fun. Throw a party in the middle.

Added: 2007-12-14