Nice beginner route that works its way up several ledges to a pretty mini-cave. Start on 22-Eyed Beholder Hovering Near By, but use the small boulder on the crowded ledge. Traverse right after the 1st hanger, then climb up to anchors on the left side above the cave. The hanger next to the anchors is for Warg Riders. VARIATION "Warg Riders" 5.7/5.8. Climb Swordmaiden of Rohan, clip the 7th draw just left of her anchors (DON'T CLIP HER ANCHORS.), continue upward, traverse right over the cave and clip Sky Full of Dementor's anchors. (HAZARD: never clip and lead over these super-shut anchors.)
Submitted by: Hogge on 2008-04-28
Last Modified: 2010-10-11
Route ID: 90832
This seems like a classic beginner route. I'd give it five stars if the landing were bigger (to allow a group of beginners) and if the route had no traverse section (allowing top-roping). Lead the route and then the beginner can clean it.
This route's probably also valuable as a first-ever lead.
I downgraded this route from 5.8 after 3 of 4 people felt it was a 5.7. The short extension (Warg Riders) was at 5.9 and is now regraded at 5.8.