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variation: Tim, the Goatheaded Wizard -

Average Rating = 5.00/5 Average Rating : 5.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 0
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (1)
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this variation climbs left of the bolt line, so lead falls are never knot-at-bolt and always fall down and swing right.
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10d
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure 5.00/5
  Rock Quality 5.00/5
  Scenery 4.00/5
  Fun Factor 5.00/5


Easier variation of the pure face climb Gelatinous Cube's Deadly Solevent (11c). Both are a sweet routes, though the bolts are right of the variation and falls involve swings. Clip the safety rope to reach the start on the wedge-shaped boulder. Belayer can go up that boulder and sling the 1st bolt, or else belay down below the boulder (clipping into the safety rope). At the start, go left along the undercling flake and then straight up on crimps left of the bolt line. Cross back right onto Gelatinous Cube when the holds get better.

Submitted by: Hogge on 2008-11-15
Views: 679
Route ID: 96404

1 Ascent Recorded

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  Difficulty 5.10d
  Safety Rating PG13
  Rock Quality
  Fun Factor
Top Rope Top Rope ascent by: Hogge on 2008-10-12 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars TR solo

This route variation has been dormant for over a year. I cleaned off caked choss and good crimps started appearing. I moved a bolt (#2/#3, depending on whether you skip the low 1st bolt) up to better protect this variation and the main route (Gelatinous Cube).

Added: 2008-10-13