Skip to Content

Freddie vs. Jason - 5.10a

Average Rating = 4.25/5 Average Rating : 4.25 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 9
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (4)
Premier Sponsor:
Trevor Brooks
Rock (Sport)
G
1
5 draws and 1 fixed biner on a chain
35
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10a
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 4.50/5
  Rock Quality 4.00/5
  Scenery 3.50/5
  Fun Factor 4.50/5

Description:

Access by crawling under the first boulder jammed between the two cliffs. Starts between that and the next big boulder jamming the cliffs. Belayer sits low with feet on stacked boulders, back against the ledge, and clips into the hanger there. (This allows traffic to pass behind the belayer.) Climber pulls on a jug to belayer's right, onto a ledge, and then up and left. There it looks like 5.11,but the trick beta makes it light pulling and resultsin teh 5.10a grade. Shares anchors with toprope route #9 and its permanent toprope. Just clip your rope into the supershut anchors and let it lay on top of the locking biners that are holding the toprope, then lower.

Submitted by: Hogge on 2007-12-13
Views: 543
Route ID: 90863

Most Recent Photos

4 Ascents Recorded

GoRecord an ascent

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
Onsight Onsight ascent by: kubok13 on 2009-06-13 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars none

thin crux, fun stuff

Added: 2009-06-15

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10a
  Safety Rating G
Onsight Onsight ascent by: justroberto on 2008-07-06 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars -

-

Added: 2008-07-06

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10a
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: Hogge on 2007-11-04 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars 5.11+ looking crux

The crux looked like 5.10a while bolting on rappel, then weeks later on lead it was a different story. Noone wants to move left off that ledge, despite good protection; it's weirdly intimidating or something. The crux is a rare beauty where without the move it's looking 5.11+, and with the move you barely require any muscle, just balance and stretch. Only a couple climbers have read the crux quickly; everyone else turns a short route into a long study.

Added: 2007-12-04

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10a
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: kvochatzer on 2007-11-11 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars good onsight challenge

Not difficult climbing, however figuring out the crux sequence is the challenge. I made the move more difficult by pinching an intermediary nub through the crux, but hey, it worked!

Added: 2007-12-02