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Hellboy - 5.11c

Average Rating = 5.00/5 Average Rating : 5.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 4
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (1)
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John Hogge
Rock (Sport)
PG13
1
1 bolt at its start, then reach left clipping all of Goblin Mutant's upper bolts, chained biner, and anchors. After clipping its chained biner, move up and clip a short draw on the chain's hanger, for max protection over the opposing cliff's bulge. WARN
40
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11c
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure 5.00/5
  Rock Quality 5.00/5
  Scenery 4.00/5
  Fun Factor 5.00/5

Description:

Use only handholds between or directly on the lines defined by two chained biners. This "offs" a frowny-face hold near Goblin Mutant's 1st bolt. For a true send, consider tick-marking each hold, or you’re likely to grab holds off route. This contrived line is worth it, using holds not on any other route in a narrow corridor defined by the chains.

Submitted by: Hogge on 2009-01-02
Views: 507
Route ID: 96697

1 Ascent Recorded

GoRecord an ascent

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11c
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: Hogge on 2008-11-15 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars FA of Hellboy, the most contrived lead route EVER in the history of contrived lead routes.

At least Hellboy's contrived line is permanently marked by the two hanging chains. But they're fairly close together, constraining the hands to play in a narrow corridor. Once on the route you'll be grabbing stuff that's out-of-bounds; you'll have to stop and eyeball the chains, spending time judging whether holds are on. One low hold is a judgement call: I consider the low frowny face hold "off". Higher up by the left chain, there's a big hold. The juggy right end is in bounds, so I consider the whole hold in-bounds. On the right I consider a big sidepullable pocket in-bounds.

I took 5 tries on three outings. New beta emerged; it drops down to 5.11c.

Hellboy has two moves that felt like moves on the neighboring routes, but it's pretty much it's own steep crimp/pocket deal with an immensely fun piece of beta THAT SHALL GO UNEXPLAINED HEREIN, and expands the popular set of routes in the middle of Horror Movie Wall.

Added: 2008-11-16