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Lord of the Pit - 5.11b

Average Rating = 4.67/5 Average Rating : 4.67 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 0
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (3)
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Greg Brooks
Rock (Sport)
G
1
10 fixed biners on chains; all you need is a 35 meter rope or longer. DO NOT SECOND (FOLLOW) THIS ROUTE! ONLY LEAD IT. Bolts are placed only with lead falls (swinging left) only, not seconding falls (swinging right).
60
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11a
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 4.67/5
  Rock Quality 4.67/5
  Scenery 4.67/5
  Fun Factor 4.67/5

Description:

An awesome traverse into and through most of the Pitfiend Pit on its overhung Horror Movie Wall. Starts outside the pit, sitting on a half-coffin sized boulder "guarding" the pit entrance. Reach right to clip the 1st biner, then off you go. Belayer can stand on the thin ledge below the 1st bolt and be ready to bump the leader away from the half-coffin sized boulder should he fall early. Traverse right, clipping all the fixed biners on chains, exiting up on Freddie vs. Jason. Greg Brooks FA. Greg climbs with the Zen calm and pace of a pre-global-warming glacier that would pump-out mere mortals, and I figured this would cost him on this long route...but no.

Descent Options:

after clipping the super-shuts of Freddie vs. Jason, lower.

Submitted by: Hogge on 2008-04-28
Last Modified: 2011-09-20
Views: 570
Route ID: 90867

Most Recent Photos

3 Ascents Recorded

GoRecord an ascent

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: Hogge on 2014-02-15 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Sent at Last!

Never worked this more than one weekend at a time, with months/year between tries. Wasn't expecting to send it! Hard 11a or easy 11b but that's if you know all the holds. Head game route through the last crux.

Added: 2014-02-15

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11a
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: kvochatzer on 2011-09-18 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars much long than Spider Grind...

difficulty is similar but without the slippery holds that Spider has and there really isn't any reason to heel hook that I could find.

Got this on the second try. It did take some determination, that is for certain.

Added: 2011-09-20

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11b
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Hang Dog Hang Dog ascent by: Hogge on 2008-12-08 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars traverse through a rock canyon wonderland

Unique setting: this traverse takes you through most of the narrow canyon (the Pitfiend Pit) between two climbable cliffs.

Back in '08, four strong types agreed on Greg's 5.10d grade. But this is clearly harder than Spider Grind, even with the rest.

Added: 2008-03-21