Average Rating : 4.67 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 0
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (3)
10 fixed biners on chains; all you need is a 35 meter rope or longer. DO NOT SECOND (FOLLOW) THIS ROUTE! ONLY LEAD IT. Bolts are placed only with lead falls (swinging left) only, not seconding falls (swinging right).
An awesome traverse into and through most of the Pitfiend Pit on its overhung Horror Movie Wall. Starts outside the pit, sitting on a half-coffin sized boulder "guarding" the pit entrance. Reach right to clip the 1st biner, then off you go. Belayer can stand on the thin ledge below the 1st bolt and be ready to bump the leader away from the half-coffin sized boulder should he fall early. Traverse right, clipping all the fixed biners on chains, exiting up on Freddie vs. Jason. Greg Brooks FA. Greg climbs with the Zen calm and pace of a pre-global-warming glacier that would pump-out mere mortals, and I figured this would cost him on this long route...but no.
after clipping the super-shuts of Freddie vs. Jason, lower.
Submitted by: Hogge on 2008-04-28
Last Modified: 2011-09-20
Route ID: 90867
Never worked this more than one weekend at a time, with months/year between tries. Wasn't expecting to send it! Hard 11a or easy 11b but that's if you know all the holds. Head game route through the last crux.