Routes : North America : United States : Texas : South Central Texas : Monster Rock : Horror Movie Wall : Willard Calls Out the Rats
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Willard Calls Out the Rats - 5.12a
Average Rating : 5.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 8
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (1)
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Austin Wise
Rock (Toprope)
G
1
35
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Description:
A static line is hung permanently for toproping. Starts where the ground begins droping into the dark hole, on the big matchable block. Stay left of the sloping boulder and power up the almost-bare section. VARIATION "Ben's Rat Army" TR 5.10c. Below the bare face, traverse right, just over the sloping boulder, onto the ledge, and then up and left finishing Freddie vs. Jason (Rachel Harris FA on the variation). Willard is an unusual horror movie from the 70's with a nice 00's remake staring Crispin Glover.
Submitted by: Hogge on 2007-11-22
Views: 807
Route ID: 90862
1 Ascent Recorded
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.11d |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure |  |
| Rock Quality |  |
| Scenery |  |
| Fun Factor | |
Top Rope ascent by:
Willard's blank section really isn't blank; Grade might be lower
Clean TR.
Willard proved alot of fun. It has a blank-looking section that suggests the route will suck unless you have a massive reach. MILD BETA SPOILER FOLLOWS: but that section sports two or three crimps. The route does have one big very fun reach that footwork makes not very height-dependent.
That blank section, from the ground, has you thinking that you'll have to cheat over to the far left onto a sidepull. But its crimps make that unnecessary and that hold is really on another route (Eyepluck).
I'm delighted at its quality as it doesn't look great from the ground. It has the same feel as that whole set of popular routes from Goblin Mutant through Eyepluck. This is the hardest one, but feels more like 11d than 12a/b. It felt not as hard as TRing Reimer's Yerdel (12a), and its crux did not demand as much power as Hastur's (11d). This grade may depend on height; I'm 6' but several shorter folks grade this 12a/b.
Willard proved alot of fun. It has a blank-looking section that suggests the route will suck unless you have a massive reach. MILD BETA SPOILER FOLLOWS: but that section sports two or three crimps. The route does have one big very fun reach that footwork makes not very height-dependent.
That blank section, from the ground, has you thinking that you'll have to cheat over to the far left onto a sidepull. But its crimps make that unnecessary and that hold is really on another route (Eyepluck).
I'm delighted at its quality as it doesn't look great from the ground. It has the same feel as that whole set of popular routes from Goblin Mutant through Eyepluck. This is the hardest one, but feels more like 11d than 12a/b. It felt not as hard as TRing Reimer's Yerdel (12a), and its crux did not demand as much power as Hastur's (11d). This grade may depend on height; I'm 6' but several shorter folks grade this 12a/b.
Added: 2008-10-05
