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variation: Ben's Rat Army - 5.10c

Average Rating = 5.00/5 Average Rating : 5.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 8
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (1)
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Rock (Toprope)
Top-rope protected on a static line kept at the crag. REMEMBER the cliff behind you: falls swing you left and back into it. Just put a hand out and you'll bump that cliff lightly. The swing looks worse than it is; you'll bump gently.
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10c
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 3.00/5
  Rock Quality 5.00/5
  Scenery 3.00/5
  Fun Factor 5.00/5


This fun variation climbs the start of the much harder Willard Calls Out the Rats, cutting diagonally up & right with feet just above the boulder pile. Pull onto and stand on the prominent ledge. Now finish Freddie vs. Jason (10a), climbing up and left to your TR's anchors. This variation is probably a great way to prepare for projecting nearby Goblin Mutant (11a), or a great warmup for tougher grade climbers.

Descent Options:


Submitted by: Hogge on 2008-10-05
Views: 894
Route ID: 96219

1 Ascent Recorded

GoRecord an ascent

  Difficulty 5.10c
  Safety Rating G
  Rock Quality
  Fun Factor
Top Rope Top Rope ascent by: Hogge on 2008-10-05 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Nice alternate to leading Freddie vs. Jason

Freddie vs. Jason (10a) is a great lead, well bolted but that one weird move always makes people pause. I recommend sending Freddie vs. Jason first, then use this TR route (Ben's Rat Army) from then on, to add its tougher bottom section onto Freddie and to eliminate the need to clean (second) Freddie. This is a fun, underutilized route that adds to the mix of 10's in the pit.

The swing on falls adds a little sense exposure; put a hand out and you're fine swinging onto the opposing cliff.

Added: 2008-10-05