| Safety Rating
finally a repeat on new beta, but only for the tall.
The "Blaine beta" was a painful kneebar to slowly move up, optional lefthand undercling, then snatch the best part of the sprag (a little crimp dish). Yesterday I kept hands low, got left foot high on the big point, leaned right, swung in a left-and-up arc (powerd by the left foot) to make the snatch pretty much blind. All about precision but the power requirements weren't much, no big power dyno such as Ralph's Route. Comparable to Ferntasm Twice Removed (11b) but harder to stick, harder to hold onto and move up on.
A 5'8" guy did not have the body length to do this style of deadpoint, and so the route grade is (IMO) highly height-dependent.