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variation3 Fear Insanity - 5.12a

Average Rating = 5.00/5 Average Rating : 5.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 14
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (1)
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Boone Speed
Rock (Sport)
8 permadraws
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.12a
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 3.00/5
  Rock Quality 5.00/5
  Scenery 4.00/5
  Fun Factor 5.00/5


This is a variation of the Insane Whisperings traverse. Traverse its first 7 permadraws, then go up (finishing on Fear of Evil Gods), clipping an 8th permdraw.

Submitted by: Hogge on 2009-01-02
Last Modified: 2010-05-31
Views: 736
Route ID: 90945

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1 Ascent Recorded

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  Difficulty 5.12a
  Safety Rating G
  Rock Quality
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: Hogge on 2010-05-29 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars finally!

A couple pieces of beta made it go easier and more fun. After the 7th clip, drop LH down to the chossy jug. Right arm then goes under the rope and up to jam the horizontal crack, so that the rope rests on right forearm, minimizing the amount of rope the LH has to pull to clip #8.

This next beta is probably for tall folk. LF high and left on the big round hold. RH sloper 3pocket, LF crimp, RH up and right to a shallow 3pocket amongst the sprag. Keep right arm straight and swing left to hit LH on the semi-jug sloper slot, way left. RF rests sideways on the ledge to provide some power through the pump.

If you are too short to do the swing move, you're force to set the RF on the ledge earlier and pull alot of power on the sprag and crimp to reach the far left semi-jug. I pulled that way many times but never linked it.

Added: 2010-05-29