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Dinner with Dracula - 5.12a
Average Rating : 4.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 12
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (1)
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Mircea Popescu, Tommy Blackwell
Rock (Sport)
PG13
1
4 bolts (One is a permadraw on Rock-About traverse.)
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Description:
Crux clips on both low bolts make up the PG13. Help us tighten up the grade, which is either 11d or 12a.
Submitted by: Hogge on 2012-09-24
Views: 128
Route ID: 112620
1 Ascent Recorded
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.12a |
| Safety Rating | G |
Red Point ascent by:
step at the outset
A very nice line with some tough thin moves going past #2 to the horizontal crack above #3. A good rest is had before the finish.
As bolted, the protection requires a crux clip at #2. To eliminate the crux clip here, you can use a double quick draw combination or a 24 inch runner hung off #2. This permits the lead climber to clip the protection and head on to the horizontal crack system above #3 instead of stopping at the curving left two-finger pocket left of #2.
First run was 2012/10/28: I hung all over it and didn't much like it. Glad I got back on it today and found its flow for me.
As bolted, the protection requires a crux clip at #2. To eliminate the crux clip here, you can use a double quick draw combination or a 24 inch runner hung off #2. This permits the lead climber to clip the protection and head on to the horizontal crack system above #3 instead of stopping at the curving left two-finger pocket left of #2.
First run was 2012/10/28: I hung all over it and didn't much like it. Glad I got back on it today and found its flow for me.
Added: 2012-10-28
