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Dinner with Dracula - 5.12a

Average Rating = 3.80/5 Average Rating : 3.80 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 12
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (5)
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Mircea Popescu, Tommy Blackwell
Rock (Sport)
PG13
1
4 bolts (One is a permadraw on Rock-About traverse.)
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.12a
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 3.50/5
  Rock Quality 4.00/5
  Scenery 3.00/5
  Fun Factor 4.00/5

Description:

Crux clips on both low bolts make up the PG13. Help us tighten up the grade, which is either 11d or 12a.

Submitted by: Hogge on 2012-09-24
Views: 355
Route ID: 112620

5 Ascents Recorded

GoRecord an ascent

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.12a
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Flash Flash ascent by: Brianleepainter on 2015-04-19 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Good Movement! new

This route starts on decent side pulls and crimps to what I felt was the crux move, which is going from a small right hand pocket then intermediate crimp and moving to a good gaston. I'd grade this one as a softer 5.12a.

Added: 2015-04-19

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.12a
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: jb2100 on 2015-04-19 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Great route! new

Very fun route! Not sure on the grade. Felt about the same as Lessamir, so if we're calling that 12a than this is 12a as well, but pretty soft in the grade. Maybe a bit easier than Ctrl-Alt-Delete and easier than Yurtle. But if we're trying to keep NS grading consistent (and we should) then this is probably 12a.

Added: 2015-04-19

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11d
  Safety Rating G
Flash Flash ascent by: ericq99 on 2014-02-23 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Fun

not 12a tho at least with a reach. Felt 11+ on the flash. Hand jam rest in middle of route gets the pump meter back to zero before the top

Added: 2014-02-23

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.12a
  Safety Rating G
Red Point Red Point ascent by: ematter on 2013-03-30 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars Dinner with Dracula

Powerful start to an endurance finish. Crux is clipping #2 unless you extend it. I really like the flow of the bottom if you stick clip 2 and avoid 1 entirely.

Soft 12a, I think the bottom is too powerful for 11d.

Added: 2013-06-29

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.12a
  Safety Rating G
Red Point Red Point ascent by: kvochatzer on 2013-03-17 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars step at the outset

A very nice line with some tough thin moves going past #2 to the horizontal crack above #3. A good rest is had before the finish.

As bolted, the protection requires a crux clip at #2. To eliminate the crux clip here, you can use a double quick draw combination or a 24 inch runner hung off #2. This permits the lead climber to clip the protection and head on to the horizontal crack system above #3 instead of stopping at the curving left two-finger pocket left of #2.


First run was 2012/10/28: I hung all over it and didn't much like it. Glad I got back on it today and found its flow for me.

Added: 2012-10-28