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The Bitchin' High Traverse - 5.10d

Average Rating = 3.67/5 Average Rating : 3.67 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 0
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (3)
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John Hogge
Rock (Sport)
G
1
10 bolts (9 are permadraws).
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10d
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 4.00/5
  Rock Quality 4.00/5
  Scenery 4.00/5
  Fun Factor 4.50/5

Description:

Start on The Mexican (see Holladay Wall) bolts 1-2, then follow permadraws up and right onto the ledge. Leaving the ledge is awkward without the following beta: keep feet on the ledge and lean out to clip, come back. Use a left foot shelf and climb up, face near Penelope Says So's anchors, then hands traverse the obvious shelf, feet just over the roof, clipping low. The rest of the route is more natural and worth this flaw (IMO).

Submitted by: Hogge on 2012-09-11
Views: 364
Route ID: 112542

3 Ascents Recorded

GoRecord an ascent

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10d
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Hang Dog Hang Dog ascent by: loiraclimber13 on 2013-07-23 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Last Day in Austin

Made it to the 6th drar

Added: 2013-07-23

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11a
  Safety Rating G
Hang Dog Hang Dog ascent by: ericq99 on 2013-02-06 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars worth a run

fell after kicking off a foothold. felt 11a after moving through the smaller, less obv holds in the middle.

Added: 2013-04-04

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10d
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: Hogge on 2012-08-11 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars FA & discussion of the weirdness

Memorable and interesting traversing up high. This route is hard to grade. The crux moves are surrounded by non-easy moves that might suggest 5.11a. But there's a whole lot less pump than Rock-About. The weird low ledge bolt is intended to prevent ropes from crossing/sawing should someone lead Penelope Says So at the same time as you lead this traverse. The weird low clips after the ledge are because Penelope's bolt was already there. I guess they help reduce rope-drag too.

Added: 2012-09-11