Average Rating : 3.50 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 15
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (2)
Starts on an obvious jug. Climbs the right side of the bulge, trending slightly left. (Corsican Brothers climbs the left side of this same bulge.) Before posting a grade opinion on your ascent, please read my ascent notes as you could easily be misled by your experience on the route. (See Hogge below.) Thanks!
Submitted by: Hogge on 2013-11-02
Route ID: 114582
Got the pleasure of learning how to bolt on this route with John.
As per the route, slightly powerful opening sequence for the short in stature then a slightly tricky move past the cave to fun balancy stuff to the anchors. I remember doing something very similar to John's mentioned beta for the crux so I don't think that move (with the foot in the cave) is very height dependent. Pretty fun move too. The most height dependent part was likely the opening move.
Don't remember grading well, but at the time thought mid 10. For now, I'll say 10c until I get on it again.
Beta spoiler: I love the few routes where a crux require you to move an appendage up, then down before proceeding up. The power crux of this route is the opening deadpoint. Opinions range 5.10a-c so I'm tacking on a 10b for now. I'll check your Ascent grade opinions to finetune. If you feel the middle is the crux, you may have missed the trick beta. With right foot in the cave, you're high enough to get the thin right hand gaston crimp. Now bring right foot back down to an obvious ledge to free your left foot up and left to a knob. Right foot goes back to the cave. Next move (not sure which hand) goes high to a finger jug. All this takes me zero power, maybe 5.7-8. If short people can't reach that finger jug without spending more power than the opening move, the grade should be set height-dependent.