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Fangoria - 5.12a

Average Rating = 3.75/5 Average Rating : 3.75 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 11
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (4)
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Rock
G
1
5 bolts. Pass up the stick clip
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.12a
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 4.00/5
  Rock Quality 3.50/5
  Scenery 2.50/5
  Fun Factor 4.00/5

Description:

A low bolt protects the very top of the starting ledge. Popular.

Submitted by: Hogge on 2012-04-12
Views: 419
Route ID: 111043

4 Ascents Recorded

GoRecord an ascent

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.12a
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: ematter on 2013-09-02 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Fangoria

This was a lot more fun than I was expecting and I sent it sooner than I was expecting too - on the first day.

Clips, beta, starting it if you're short, all took a bit of figuring out. I couldn't do the big move after you pass the tufa and so I had to use alternate beta there. Where the crux is probably depends on your height. But once I figured it out it went pretty well. Pumpy. I can definitely see hanging the draws would make it harder because some of the clips felt kind of high already.

I've never done Jade, but I actually felt like this was one of my easier 12a's. Maybe it's because the crux is toward the bottom.

Added: 2013-09-02

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11d
  Safety Rating G
Red Point Red Point ascent by: nosferatu87 on 2012-07-22 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars .

Fun. Pretty easy to read. Some interesting feet. The middle section has a couple ways it can be done. Felt a little easy for the grade, just steep. Should've onsited but I botched the middle sequence. Lowered and ran back up it for the send 10 min later.

Added: 2012-07-23

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.12a
  Safety Rating G
Hang Dog Hang Dog ascent by: ericq99 on 2012-05-29 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars worth a run

good tufa pull to crimps and then jugs. not sure if the last bolt is intended to be clipped from the roof hole or from out left. route is not obvious for last 15'

Added: 2012-06-29

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.12a
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: jb2100 on 2012-05-04 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars *

Sent second try after figuring out the beta and clipping stances. Pretty exposed clipping the last bolt. I was hoping for an onsight but the clipping stances are a bit tricky to read and I pumped out trying to figure them out. Once you know the beta it's still a pretty tough 12a though. I'd say upper level 12a, close to Jade's difficulty.

Added: 2012-05-04