Routes : North America : United States : Texas : South Central Texas : North Shore : Insanity Wall : Fangoria
Fangoria - 5.12a
Average Rating : 3.75 out of 5Route sequence (left to right): 11
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (4)
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Rock
G
1
5 bolts. Pass up the stick clip
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Description:
A low bolt protects the very top of the starting ledge. Popular.
Submitted by: Hogge on 2012-04-12
Views: 1018
Route ID: 111043
4 Ascents Recorded
Ratings | |
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Difficulty | 5.12a |
Safety Rating | G |
Exposure | |
Rock Quality | |
Scenery | |
Fun Factor |
Red Point ascent by: ematter on 2013-09-02
(View Climbing Log)
Fangoria
This was a lot more fun than I was expecting and I sent it sooner than I was expecting too - on the first day.
Clips, beta, starting it if you're short, all took a bit of figuring out. I couldn't do the big move after you pass the tufa and so I had to use alternate beta there. Where the crux is probably depends on your height. But once I figured it out it went pretty well. Pumpy. I can definitely see hanging the draws would make it harder because some of the clips felt kind of high already.
I've never done Jade, but I actually felt like this was one of my easier 12a's. Maybe it's because the crux is toward the bottom.
Clips, beta, starting it if you're short, all took a bit of figuring out. I couldn't do the big move after you pass the tufa and so I had to use alternate beta there. Where the crux is probably depends on your height. But once I figured it out it went pretty well. Pumpy. I can definitely see hanging the draws would make it harder because some of the clips felt kind of high already.
I've never done Jade, but I actually felt like this was one of my easier 12a's. Maybe it's because the crux is toward the bottom.
Added: 2013-09-02
Ratings | |
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Difficulty | 5.11d |
Safety Rating | G |
Red Point ascent by: nosferatu87 on 2012-07-22
(View Climbing Log)
.
Fun. Pretty easy to read. Some interesting feet. The middle section has a couple ways it can be done. Felt a little easy for the grade, just steep. Should've onsited but I botched the middle sequence. Lowered and ran back up it for the send 10 min later.
Added: 2012-07-23
Ratings | |
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Difficulty | 5.12a |
Safety Rating | G |
Hang Dog ascent by: ericq99 on 2012-05-29
(View Climbing Log)
worth a run
good tufa pull to crimps and then jugs. not sure if the last bolt is intended to be clipped from the roof hole or from out left. route is not obvious for last 15'
Added: 2012-06-29
Ratings | |
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Difficulty | 5.12a |
Safety Rating | G |
Exposure | |
Rock Quality | |
Scenery | |
Fun Factor |
Red Point ascent by: jb2100 on 2012-05-04
(View Climbing Log)
*
Sent second try after figuring out the beta and clipping stances. Pretty exposed clipping the last bolt. I was hoping for an onsight but the clipping stances are a bit tricky to read and I pumped out trying to figure them out. Once you know the beta it's still a pretty tough 12a though. I'd say upper level 12a, close to Jade's difficulty.
Added: 2012-05-04