The Southern Gentleman strikes again. Starts on the right side of a mild dihedral. Landmark: the low anchors of Rock-About / Highway to Heaven are on the left side of the dihedral. Mild runout to bolt 3. Stick clip bolt 2; belay from under the roof.
Submitted by: Hogge on 2012-09-11
Last Modified: 2014-02-10
Route ID: 112546
Stick clip bolt 2, which is an unneeded permadraw that's likely to get used elsewhere. So I climbed to the easy part and just lowered of the perma, uninterested in the Class 4 looking finish. MY BAD: later I learned there is a shrine with interesting objects up there. Downgrading to 11b, what Vino probably originally said, from my run and another guy's opinion plus Karl & Emily's inputs.
Beta spoiler: use the obvious starting holds. Right hand is a sidepull. Move RH up on that sidepull crack to the top to make more room for the scrunch feet. Feet stem, LH cross to bad slopey crimp, then bump to slightly better crimp, then smack the ledge out left.
So this route is just left of Leap of Faith and feels kind of like a harder version of it. A boulder problem essentially. Somewhat powerful with small holds to easy finish. I think Karl's description is describing Turtle Man, which I don't see listed anywhere (possibly goes in the Awesome roof section?). Three of us did it today, an Onsight, Flash, and Redpoint - thinking mid 11 but I might have to do it again to get a more accurate feel of the grade since its more of a boulder than a route.