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Call of the Wild Man - 5.11b

Average Rating = 2.33/5 Average Rating : 2.33 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (3)
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Alvino Pon
Rock (Sport)
G
1
4 bolts and anchors
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11b
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 2.00/5
  Rock Quality 4.00/5
  Scenery 2.50/5
  Fun Factor 2.00/5

Description:

The Southern Gentleman strikes again. Starts on the right side of a mild dihedral. Landmark: the low anchors of Rock-About / Highway to Heaven are on the left side of the dihedral. Mild runout to bolt 3. Stick clip bolt 2; belay from under the roof.

Submitted by: Hogge on 2012-09-11
Last Modified: 2014-02-10
Views: 330
Route ID: 112546

3 Ascents Recorded

GoRecord an ascent

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: Hogge on 2014-02-09 (View Climbing Log)

1 out of 5 stars finish the route just to see the shrine.

Stick clip bolt 2, which is an unneeded permadraw that's likely to get used elsewhere. So I climbed to the easy part and just lowered of the perma, uninterested in the Class 4 looking finish. MY BAD: later I learned there is a shrine with interesting objects up there. Downgrading to 11b, what Vino probably originally said, from my run and another guy's opinion plus Karl & Emily's inputs.

Beta spoiler: use the obvious starting holds. Right hand is a sidepull. Move RH up on that sidepull crack to the top to make more room for the scrunch feet. Feet stem, LH cross to bad slopey crimp, then bump to slightly better crimp, then smack the ledge out left.

Added: 2014-02-10

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11c
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Flash Flash ascent by: ematter on 2013-09-15 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars Call of the Wild Man

So this route is just left of Leap of Faith and feels kind of like a harder version of it. A boulder problem essentially. Somewhat powerful with small holds to easy finish. I think Karl's description is describing Turtle Man, which I don't see listed anywhere (possibly goes in the Awesome roof section?). Three of us did it today, an Onsight, Flash, and Redpoint - thinking mid 11 but I might have to do it again to get a more accurate feel of the grade since its more of a boulder than a route.

Added: 2013-09-15

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11b
  Safety Rating G
Onsight Onsight ascent by: kvochatzer on 2013-09-15 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars overlooked

footwork and finger intensive. this was a fun send, albeit a very short section for the grade. a very nice surprise.

Added: 2013-05-14