just left of the orange overhanging area. Grade needs more opinions; Birddog had it 10c from toproping before bolting. I see maybe 10d but it's awefully technical for that. There's special beta you should try before entering a grade opinion. SPOILER: work the hands over the roof til left hand is in the hueco. Left foot far left, slightly above the roof. Turn your left palm up and sink your entire freaking arm into the hueco, grabbing the deep jug in there. Work left foot closer under you. Right hand to the slot under the jugs, stand up and clip.
Submitted by: Hogge on 2012-09-11
Last Modified: 2013-05-16
Route ID: 112543
Got on this with Karl. The bolt scheme is rather odd. A bit of exposure gets in your head as you pull the roof. Getting off the deck wasn't as hard as it looked from the ground. Didn't use the beta AP and John are referring to so I guess that's where the grade comes from.
Header is AP's quote. For grade opinions you MUST try the beta under the route description. That's the move AP is talking about. Birddog originally thought 10c from toprope runs before bolting. Later I forgot that key beta and thought 11b when Karl and I led it. AP and I did it with the beta recently. She thinks 11a. I took liberty of revising the grade to 11a but think it might be 10d, felt easier than Menopause Mania and comparable to T-Roofic Indirect. The low and high moves are awefully technical, but I'm grading on power.