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Live Action - 5.11a

Average Rating = 3.67/5 Average Rating : 3.67 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 4
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (3)
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Birddog
Rock (Sport)
G
1
4 bolts and anchors. Runout to bolt 2: advise stick clipping bolt 2.
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11a
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 4.00/5
  Rock Quality 4.00/5
  Scenery 3.00/5
  Fun Factor 5.00/5

Description:

just left of the orange overhanging area. Grade needs more opinions; Birddog had it 10c from toproping before bolting. I see maybe 10d but it's awefully technical for that. There's special beta you should try before entering a grade opinion. SPOILER: work the hands over the roof til left hand is in the hueco. Left foot far left, slightly above the roof. Turn your left palm up and sink your entire freaking arm into the hueco, grabbing the deep jug in there. Work left foot closer under you. Right hand to the slot under the jugs, stand up and clip.

Submitted by: Hogge on 2012-09-11
Last Modified: 2013-05-16
Views: 284
Route ID: 112543

3 Ascents Recorded

GoRecord an ascent

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11b
  Safety Rating G
Onsight Onsight ascent by: ematter on 2013-05-05 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars Live Action

Got on this with Karl. The bolt scheme is rather odd. A bit of exposure gets in your head as you pull the roof. Getting off the deck wasn't as hard as it looked from the ground. Didn't use the beta AP and John are referring to so I guess that's where the grade comes from.

Added: 2013-06-29

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10d
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: Hogge on 2013-05-13 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars "one of the best moves around Austin"

Header is AP's quote. For grade opinions you MUST try the beta under the route description. That's the move AP is talking about. Birddog originally thought 10c from toprope runs before bolting. Later I forgot that key beta and thought 11b when Karl and I led it. AP and I did it with the beta recently. She thinks 11a. I took liberty of revising the grade to 11a but think it might be 10d, felt easier than Menopause Mania and comparable to T-Roofic Indirect. The low and high moves are awefully technical, but I'm grading on power.

Added: 2013-05-15

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11b
  Safety Rating G
Hang Dog Hang Dog ascent by: kvochatzer on 2013-05-12 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars beware the mid-day sun over the top

hard glare at the anchors if you climb at mid-day. falling at the anchors prior to clipping the rope into them is likely not a good fall at all. wrecking ball.

Added: 2013-05-14