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Rattled - 5.11c

Average Rating = 3.75/5 Average Rating : 3.75 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 6
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (4)
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Karl Vochatzer
Rock (Sport)
G
1
5 bolts and anchors
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11b
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 3.50/5
  Rock Quality 3.00/5
  Scenery 3.50/5
  Fun Factor 3.50/5

Description:

Probably the steepest of the routes going up the high orange rock area. The grade is 5.11c-d so far on only a couple opinions.

Submitted by: Hogge on 2012-09-11
Last Modified: 2012-09-12
Views: 259
Route ID: 112544

4 Ascents Recorded

GoRecord an ascent

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11c
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: ematter on 2013-09-15 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars Rattled

I decided not to huck so I did the crimpy start on the right side. Debating 5.11b or 5.11c. Would say B if not for the small tricky holds at the finish - the middle really isn't that bad. Trying to compare with routes of similar style, not really sure. Maybe an easy c.

Added: 2013-09-15

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11b
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: trevorcgray on 2013-05-18 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Very fun climb

A lot of fun. Good route Karl.
This route is deceptively pump but has great holds. Or maybe it's just that I had no info on what I was getting on.
At the top choss band, it seems to be crumbling, pretty dirty. Tried to clear a little bit out while I was climbing, but it was a never ending build up of dust.

Added: 2013-05-18

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11c
  Safety Rating G
Red Point Red Point ascent by: annette on 2012-09-15 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Pumpy

Good pumpy route with a thin committing finish

Added: 2012-09-24

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11b
  Safety Rating G
Red Point Red Point ascent by: kvochatzer on 2012-09-01 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars really very pleased with developing this one

I describe this one as the 'tiered roof' since the climber goes through several roof bands from the bottom to the top. I prefer the dynamic start off the tombstone-like boulder at the base, but an optional start is on the pointed boulder to the right and traverse slightly at the start to above the first bolt.

BEWARE of the fairly rotten choss band below the final gray roof. It sounds horrible but held up to a strong beating from my rubber mallet. I got several route developers advice to not worry about it, but I do. Expect some gravel to peel off under foot so belayer beware.

AKA - Not Just Another Choss Band in the Music Capital of the World. Had considered naming it that, but got blank responses from several with whom I mentioned this. So I went with Rattled based on finding a 2 inch long rattle from a rattle snake near the base of the crag. YIKES!

It's a solid 5.11 with the thin finish and dyno start. I'll start with 5.11b and see where the community takes it. John thinks 5.11c - as evidenced above.


Added: 2012-09-11