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28 Year Engagement - 5.11d

Average Rating = 4.00/5 Average Rating : 4.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 13
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (4)
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John Hogge
Rock (Sport)
G
1
4 bolts
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11d
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 3.00/5
  Rock Quality 4.00/5
  Scenery 3.00/5
  Fun Factor 4.00/5

Description:

Low anchors under right end of roof. Go high and then traverse right. The direct path is harder. Long draws on bolts 1 and 4.

Submitted by: Hogge on 2012-04-11
Last Modified: 2012-04-12
Views: 497
Route ID: 111022

4 Ascents Recorded

GoRecord an ascent

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11d
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: jb2100 on 2013-08-30 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Extension is doable

Easier then Ctrl-Alt-Delete so 11d seems fair. There are holds to complete the extension but they aren't any better than the face holds and you have to pull the roof making for a hard finish, likely 12d-13a though possibly a letter grade easier with good beta.

Added: 2013-08-30

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11d
  Safety Rating G
Red Point Red Point ascent by: ematter on 2013-03-02 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars 28 Year Engagement

I'm a fan of this one. It compliments my style with nice small holds. The first time I sent this I cut right to the tufas under the roof. Later I saw someone go straight up and then cut right at a right angle to the anchors. That ended up being the easier and better beta. Fun small holds. Seen this done a few ways. There is a scary lose rock in the roof jug but it's stuck and wont come out.

Added: 2013-06-29

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11d
  Safety Rating G
Red Point Red Point ascent by: kvochatzer on 2013-03-19 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars given much more respect

Sometime in 2012 I didn't finish this route because it just seemed too cryptic and my head just wasn't into that on that day.

Watched another climber do it and thought I'd give it a try. Came very close to sending it on second go by falling trying to clip the anchors. Came back again to work out the beta more and sent it on 3rd go that day. At 11d it gave me more trouble than most 12a routes I've sent. It may not be truly harder, just very precise.

Added: 2013-03-25

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11d
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: Hogge on 2010-01-01 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars vertical face, thin holds

Folks who love Prototype Wall might love this route and buddy "ctrl alt delete". All vertical, no steep starts. This one gets little traffic. Whatever grading opinions happen on "ctrl alt delete" are probably more valuable when studied along with this route.

Added: 2012-04-11