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Fancy Feast - 5.11b

Average Rating = 3.67/5 Average Rating : 3.67 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 3
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (6)
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Kareem Bassam
Rock (Sport)
G
5 Bolts + Anchors
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11b
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 3.00/5
  Rock Quality 3.33/5
  Scenery 3.00/5
  Fun Factor 4.00/5

Description:

Wonderful route with a large variation of moves. Jugs, sidepulls, finger pockets, and the whole 9 yards. Also some pretty sharp holds, so watch out! Wonderful bolt placement for good protection on nearly every move.

Submitted by: ferriskil on 2012-04-06
Views: 387
Route ID: 110983

6 Ascents Recorded

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Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11b
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: Hogge on 2014-04-05 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars 1st send during Limestoner

On the hard end of 11b but less finish pump than The Stain.

I have probably the best opening mantel beta worked out and do exotic finishing beta: ONSIGHTING SPOILER ALERT...To gain the ledge: both hands palm the ledge's edge. RF smears since there's nothing else. LF high toe hook the ledge, far left. Quickly mantle weight over hands, throwing yourself horizontal with head facing south. Come out of that by pancaking the roof. Finishing beta: LH ball, RH slot just past the arete; here lots of people go RH to the flat sloper but I hate that. So LF high, hunker low and do a left-arcing dyno, LH hitting the jug ledge. The arc gives you more time to push with the legs and pull on that RH sidepull.

Added: 2014-04-07

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11b
  Safety Rating G
Red Point Red Point ascent by: ematter on 2013-02-17 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars Fancy Feast

Moderate climbing to a pumpy finish. After pumping out and falling my first time on it, I ended up sending second go via the right. Interestingly the day I got on this I saw many people who were quite able to climb 11b fail to get onto the ledge and off the deck. 11b or c.

Added: 2013-06-29

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11b
  Safety Rating G
Red Point Red Point ascent by: ericq99 on 2013-01-27 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Good, tricky top

Felt 11b, move left to ball hold at top.

Added: 2013-01-27

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11c
  Safety Rating G
Hang Dog Hang Dog ascent by: kvochatzer on 2012-09-09 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars enigmatic top section

thin climbing to a puzzling section at the top. do you go right or left... best to decide before you get there!

Added: 2012-11-23

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11b
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Hang Dog Hang Dog ascent by: evening on 2012-09-09 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars fun at the top

one fall at the top, stay left for the better sequence

Added: 2012-09-10

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