Wonderful route with a large variation of moves. Jugs, sidepulls, finger pockets, and the whole 9 yards. Also some pretty sharp holds, so watch out!
Wonderful bolt placement for good protection on nearly every move.
Submitted by: ferriskil on 2012-04-06
Route ID: 110983
On the hard end of 11b but less finish pump than The Stain.
I have probably the best opening mantel beta worked out and do exotic finishing beta: ONSIGHTING SPOILER ALERT...To gain the ledge: both hands palm the ledge's edge. RF smears since there's nothing else. LF high toe hook the ledge, far left. Quickly mantle weight over hands, throwing yourself horizontal with head facing south. Come out of that by pancaking the roof. Finishing beta: LH ball, RH slot just past the arete; here lots of people go RH to the flat sloper but I hate that. So LF high, hunker low and do a left-arcing dyno, LH hitting the jug ledge. The arc gives you more time to push with the legs and pull on that RH sidepull.
Moderate climbing to a pumpy finish. After pumping out and falling my first time on it, I ended up sending second go via the right. Interestingly the day I got on this I saw many people who were quite able to climb 11b fail to get onto the ledge and off the deck. 11b or c.