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Man's Best Friend - 5.12c

Average Rating = 3.50/5 Average Rating : 3.50 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 9
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (2)
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Eric Patrick
Rock
G
1
4 bolts
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.12b
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 3.00/5
  Rock Quality 3.00/5
  Scenery 3.00/5
  Fun Factor 4.00/5

Description:

The book says this route was installed in '05. Nope; '08 probably. A sloper broke apart, issuing a better crimp and a downgrade on the route.

Submitted by: Hogge on 2012-04-11
Last Modified: 2013-09-30
Views: 342
Route ID: 111018

2 Ascents Recorded

GoRecord an ascent

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.12a
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: jb2100 on 2014-05-18 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars *

Not sure if more holds broke after Emily's ascent, but I thought this was more like tough 12a or soft 12b. I can see the height dependant thing though, the crux was made a lot easier with a low, far left foot that Emily may not have been able to use. I sent this second try after going bolt to bolt to figure out the beta and then resting/belaying people for about 2 hours.

Added: 2014-05-18

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.12c
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: ematter on 2013-10-06 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars Man's Best Friend

Pretty stout route - feels a lot like a boulder problem. It's on you from the start, up until you get past bolt 3. While it eases up significantly, it's not entirely a give-me. Thinking this route is harder if you are shorter. The crux is a series of big moves, one after the other - just getting off the deck is loads harder if you can't just reach the starting crimps.

Grading is in debate currently, either 12b or 12c. I'm on the 12c side I think, though taller people have said possibly 12b. I think the crux is loads harder than neighboring Ghost (though the person who said 12b said he thought Ghost was harder), and MBF's crux feels harder and more sustained than neighboring Astro Zombie (AZ seems to be good for short people). Crux feels harder than Learning to Crawl crux, though the route as a whole is not as sustained. It feels kind of comparable to the Grinch crux actually. It's probably height dependent, and it's a bit unusual (around Reimers at least) to have the crux right off the deck with no upper crux. Needless to say it needs more consensus.

Oh, and I like sticking bolt 2 because a blown clip there is a sure deck onto the ledge.

Added: 2013-10-06