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Moss Cerveza - 5.11c

Average Rating = 4.00/5 Average Rating : 4.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (3)
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John Hogge
Rock (Sport)
G
1
5 bolts
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11b
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 3.50/5
  Rock Quality 3.50/5
  Scenery 3.00/5
  Fun Factor 4.00/5

Description:

Starts between the tree and cliff. Upgraded, as recent opinions range 5.11b through 5.12a. The 11b was by a short light 5.12b type. The crux is hard to grade. Beta spoiler: your grip on the lefthand finger sloper over the permadraw weakens so fast, the "lowest" grade you can feel is with absolutely no hesitation in moving the feet to just the right spots for you and doing the deadpoint to the slot handlebar. On my repeat I hestitated so little that I didn't even look at the target handlebar until I was flying toward it. So the question in grading is, how much if any hesitation to assume? Totally wired is 0 hesitation. A fairer grading probably assumes a little hesitation, but IDK if that pushes it to 5.11d. Compare to Ralph's Route which has much better launch holds but a bigger deadpoint, to a worse target. Or compare to fingery My Name Was Muffin to maybe consider 11d. On top of all that, the move is best made without clipping until the handlebar, which introduces a headgame that can make me think the move is harder. To get your own grade opinion, TR while simulating clips.

Submitted by: Hogge on 2012-04-11
Last Modified: 2013-11-03
Views: 491
Route ID: 111012

3 Ascents Recorded

GoRecord an ascent

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11b
  Safety Rating G
Red Point Red Point ascent by: ematter on 2013-01-26 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Moss Cerveza

Tricky beta on this one makes for a tough onsight. After I figured it out it went at 11b but when I was first trying it felt pretty hard. Skip the crux clip on the perma and move through and clip it low from a jug. Pretty fun route.

Added: 2013-06-29

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11b
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: kvochatzer on 2010-01-01 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars it's trickier than it looks

A nice puzzle that can stump the best of us for an onsite. Once unlocked, it can still get you thinking at the crux. Beware the sloper, it doesn't want you to clip from it.

Added: 2012-04-11

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11c
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: Hogge on 2010-01-01 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars fun route that got better with hold breaks

Some crimps broke, forcing a bigger move on thinner holds.

The action on this route is over quicker than the rest of Mossy Wall. The last bolt was where the anchors were. It just didn't look attractive. I removed the anchors and one bolt and moved them up for an easy high cruise.

BUT the opening move is harder than any move on Katrina. Katrina's hard moves are higher so they are under pump. It's also harder than the low crux on Mossatopia. Then most of the holds to the jug are as fingery (or more) as any on Katrina. I'm thinking 11d or 12a.

Added: 2012-04-11