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Mossatopia - 5.11c

Average Rating = 4.12/5 Average Rating : 4.12 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 6
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (8)
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Dave Phillips
Rock (Sport)
G
5 Bolts + Anchors
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11c
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 4.00/5
  Rock Quality 4.00/5
  Scenery 4.00/5
  Fun Factor 4.33/5

Description:

Very powerful climb. You'll need some endurance to get through this route, but there is a knee bar to help you out. Small runout to anchors, which can make clipping them very intimidating. However, the fall is clean.

Submitted by: ferriskil on 2012-04-06
Views: 471
Route ID: 110984

8 Ascents Recorded

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Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11c
  Safety Rating G
Red Point Red Point ascent by: ematter on 2012-12-15 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Mossatopia

Fun route to the cave. It's kind of powerful down low and then manage the pump. You can get a rest in the cave in a number of fashions. Some use a knee bar, I do a off-width style chicken wing. Getting out of the cave was tricky at first but after I figured out the sequence it was easy. Sent this one my second go. There is definitely tall person beta and short person beta.

Added: 2013-06-29

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Hang Dog Hang Dog ascent by: weldhalcyon on 2013-05-06 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Humbling

Amazing sequence, nice and high. Will definitely send now that I know where the moves are.

Added: 2013-05-06

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11c
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: Hogge on 2013-04-25 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars the tricky knee bar

Weird years for me on projecting. Around '07 I came back to the sport and projected the Reimers routes everyone does every weekend--convenient and fun hanging with the gang. I didn't really like the style of those routes that much, other than Unnatural Selection and Lipo. I also projected heavily at Mrock, motivated by it being close to home and my rock. It has alot of routes I never get tired of, all in one spot.

North Shore opened, I got on the bolting bandwagon and projecting became intense and efficient for those FA's. A few years later, the guidebook motivated me to climb routes all around town, but time constraints kept me from projecting routes I didn't manage to send. I lost my projecting chops, but loved researching and writing the book. Once the book came out (March 2012), new areas of NS opened up, but I was much more selective and slow developing new routes, and they were relatively easy. I lost motivation to send anything at my former limit, a year went by and I realize I'd not sent anything above 11b. Nothing wrong with that--we had alot of fun and hit NS alot that year. But I noticed I was more scared than usual on lead, hung alot and rarely took a lead fall. Enough of that, and leading becomes stale and climbing becomes about complaining.

Then I decided it would be fun to master alot of my NS routes, working on repeats and not being such a lead wuss. Since friends end up at Mossy Wall alot, I also decided I wanted to wire the shit out of Mossatopia, the only jug route there, and super fun. So that one route (Dave Phillips') inspired me to finally set a somewhat hard project again and do it. Hopefully I'll begin mastering alot of my routes and set aside the fears of climbing.

Beta spoiler: I set the right kneebar first, shallow in the cave and "sideways," with foot pointing left towards Katrina and knee pointing right towards Ghost. Then swap to a left knee bar, I think in the same spot, to work the hands high for the final crux.

Added: 2013-04-26

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
Red Point Red Point ascent by: annette on 2012-07-31 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Beautiful

I really enjoyed this climb. There is a tricky, committing crux and the pump is on you toward the top. I wasn't fortunate enough to find a Knee bar like others have posted, but I still got the RP.

It is certainly a climb I will continue to get on.

Added: 2012-08-05

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11c
  Safety Rating G
Onsight Onsight ascent by: nosferatu87 on 2012-07-08 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars .

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Added: 2012-07-09

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