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The Ghost of Johnny Reimers - 5.12b

Average Rating = 4.00/5 Average Rating : 4.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 7
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (5)
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John Hogge
Rock (Sport)
6 bolts (1 is a permadraw). Designed runout to the anchors. Miss the anchor clip and you'll descend rather abruptly to around bolt #2! Matt T did it voluntarily; he kind of backflipped and knocked feet mildly on the cliff. The grade is based alot on endur
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.12b
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 5.00/5
  Rock Quality 4.00/5
  Scenery 4.00/5
  Fun Factor 5.00/5


Aka. "the blank route", blank looking (but not) from the ground.

Submitted by: Hogge on 2012-04-11
Last Modified: 2012-09-12
Views: 513
Route ID: 111016

5 Ascents Recorded

GoRecord an ascent

  Difficulty 5.12b
  Safety Rating G
Red Point Red Point ascent by: ematter on 2013-07-08 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars The Ghost of Johnny Reimers

Sent this one today. One of my longer projects at 10 tries and it felt good to overcome the heady runout - I lost the fear around #7.

Hardest part for me is getting off the ledge by bolt 2 - it's very awkward. Route is bolted by a tall man - at 5'3" I can't hang a draw on bolt 3 and can barely clip it from the ledge, but I either hang on the first bolt and stick clip it or climb Mossatopia and hang the draws on the way down.

Key for me was getting my beta down and becoming very efficient in foot placement and body positioning. The top stopped being scary after I got my beta down. Neat movement on this crimpy route. Definitely need to get on this one again.

Added: 2013-07-08

  Difficulty 5.12b
  Safety Rating G
Hang Dog Hang Dog ascent by: kvochatzer on 2012-11-18 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars tough crux

there is a right side variation at the last bolt instead of going left of the last bolt.

i honestly have a harder time getting off the ledge at bolt 2.

stout climb. not 12a.

Added: 2012-11-23

  Difficulty 5.12b
  Safety Rating G
Red Point Red Point ascent by: annette on 2012-09-18 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Thin and On you

This is a great climb! This is one of my favorite Austin climbs. It is thin through the entire middle section and is on you. The clip at the perma is committing and feels sketch, but it's not over have to move through that part, get the great pocket, clip the last bolt and then you are on to decent holds..but you have to fight the pump and the mental game of the run out to the chains!

Added: 2012-09-24

  Difficulty 5.12a
  Safety Rating G
Hang Dog Hang Dog ascent by: ericq99 on 2012-07-01 (View Climbing Log)

2 out of 5 stars some pretty blank sections

a few fun sections mixed with some pretty blank cryptic sections. if not for the latter, the climb would flow better... took a 30 footer from the chains. oops.

Added: 2012-07-02

  Difficulty 5.12b
  Safety Rating G
  Rock Quality
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: Hogge on 2010-01-01 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars The Jade of North Shore...

...because of the big runout to the anchors, and similar grade. This is my favorite and mentally toughest of the harder lines I put up. With the oddest development story.

NS opened for bolting in '08, and the first day I threw a rope randomly over the wall and checked it out. I could pull all moves but linking was a big question. I bolted it and a couple strong friends joined me to work it. They thought 5.12+ and that immediately killed my incentive. (I'd sent only a couple 12a's.) I abandoned it and bolted other stuff for 2 years.

During that time, the blankness of the route, the sexiness of surrounding routes (Katrina & Mossatopia's wall features), and the strong reputation of the left-end routes kept all traffic off it, to my knowledge. It never collected chalk.

After 2 years, I ran out of bolting projects and thought about checking it out again. I wondered if my height would mellow it alot compared to my two friends' attempts. Perhaps that's the case. It went down after 3-4 good sessions. The runout was freaky. The whole route inspired some later prose/poetry. Not my style of writing; I spent much more time on that piece than on the route itself.

The grade needs some examination. Wired by the time I sent, I figured 11c power crux plus 2 letters for soft-12a. A couple strong (12c+) types think easily 12b, but I've not been able to go back up and see if they were pulling the same crux hold.

[edit: since then, Nate got on it and said it's the hardest 12a in the country. Others say it's like two Yertles back to back. Upgrading to "endurance 12b". I suspect the painful crux hold also messes with people's concept of power requirements.]

Added: 2012-04-11