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The Ghost of Johnny Reimers - 5.12b

Average Rating = 4.33/5 Average Rating : 4.33 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 7
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (6)
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John Hogge
Rock (Sport)
G
1
6 bolts (1 is a permadraw). Designed runout to the anchors. Miss the anchor clip and you'll descend rather abruptly to around bolt #2! Matt T did it voluntarily; he kind of backflipped and knocked feet mildly on the cliff. The grade is based alot on endur
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.12b
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 4.00/5
  Rock Quality 3.50/5
  Scenery 3.00/5
  Fun Factor 4.50/5

Description:

Aka. "the blank route", blank looking (but not) from the ground.

Submitted by: Hogge on 2012-04-11
Last Modified: 2012-09-12
Views: 721
Route ID: 111016

6 Ascents Recorded

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Ratings
  Difficulty 5.12b
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: jb2100 on 2014-05-18 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Stiff

Tough for the grade IMO. Sent second try today, probably been on it 3 times before today so I guess that's five tries overall. Certainly not a gimme, I was shouting towards the end.

Added: 2014-05-18

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.12b
  Safety Rating G
Red Point Red Point ascent by: ematter on 2013-07-08 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars The Ghost of Johnny Reimers

Sent this one today. One of my longer projects at 10 tries and it felt good to overcome the heady runout - I lost the fear around #7.

Hardest part for me is getting off the ledge by bolt 2 - it's very awkward. Route is bolted by a tall man - at 5'3" I can't hang a draw on bolt 3 and can barely clip it from the ledge, but I either hang on the first bolt and stick clip it or climb Mossatopia and hang the draws on the way down.

Key for me was getting my beta down and becoming very efficient in foot placement and body positioning. The top stopped being scary after I got my beta down. Neat movement on this crimpy route. Definitely need to get on this one again.

Added: 2013-07-08

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.12b
  Safety Rating G
Hang Dog Hang Dog ascent by: kvochatzer on 2012-11-18 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars tough crux

there is a right side variation at the last bolt instead of going left of the last bolt.

i honestly have a harder time getting off the ledge at bolt 2.

stout climb. not 12a.

Added: 2012-11-23

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.12b
  Safety Rating G
Red Point Red Point ascent by: annette on 2012-09-18 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Thin and On you

This is a great climb! This is one of my favorite Austin climbs. It is thin through the entire middle section and is on you. The clip at the perma is committing and feels sketch, but it's not over there...you have to move through that part, get the great pocket, clip the last bolt and then you are on to decent holds..but you have to fight the pump and the mental game of the run out to the chains!

Added: 2012-09-24

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.12b
  Safety Rating PG13
Hang Dog Hang Dog ascent by: ericq99 on 2012-07-01 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars fun, small holds

took a while to figure out the beta through the crux (perma)

Added: 2012-07-02

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