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The Stain - 5.11c

Average Rating = 4.40/5 Average Rating : 4.40 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 4
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (5)
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David Cardosa
Rock (Sport)
G
1
6 bolts
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11c
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 4.00/5
  Rock Quality 4.50/5
  Scenery 4.00/5
  Fun Factor 4.50/5

Description:

Climb teh white streak with black edges.

Submitted by: Hogge on 2012-04-11
Views: 456
Route ID: 111014

5 Ascents Recorded

GoRecord an ascent

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11c
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: Hogge on 2014-10-30 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Climbed "Stained Indirect"

Great sustained route; lots of 5.10-5.11a moves/clips add up alot to an endurance grade. Katrina was bolted first, so in fairness it owns the brown slot far left of its bolt line, followed by the right-pointing flake near its bolt line, followed by the hueco between both routes. Stained CAN be climbed without the right-pointing flake, but many people go that path. Stained "direct" should borrow the brown slot (near its boltline, likely used right-handed) and the hueco between the routes.

To assess your own grade for Stained, I think you have to climb all the way to the clifftop and waist-clip both anchors. If you clip from the lower jugs, you might pump out trying to clip anchors and fall REAL FAR. For me, I was pumped less than on entirely-wired-Anger (Insanity Wall).

IMO the last bolt is too low. It's a hard clip and creates a big runout to the anchors. The natural clipping hold is the hueco.

Added: 2013-11-05

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11c
  Safety Rating G
Red Point Red Point ascent by: ematter on 2013-01-21 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars The Stain

This is a nice face route. It really helps to know where you are going. Shares some holds with Katrina which is kind of neat. Sent this one second go. A slightly different kind of 11c than Mossatopia. More sustained and less powerful.

Added: 2013-06-29

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11c
  Safety Rating G
Onsight Onsight ascent by: ericq99 on 2013-02-03 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars super fun

good sustained crimp/pocket climbing. 11c seems about right.

Added: 2013-02-04

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11c
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: jb2100 on 2012-09-01 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Tall

And fun. Crux is obvious once you're done with the route but at the time it's not. Definitely no moves harder than 11a, MAYBE 11b, but it is pretty sustained so 11c is fair.

Added: 2012-09-01

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11c
  Safety Rating G
Red Point Red Point ascent by: kvochatzer on 2012-06-09 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars sustain the stain

good climbing on the deceptively steep mossy wall.

2013 MAY 05: Finally returned to send this.

Added: 2012-06-10