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Catflip - 5.11d

Average Rating = 4.50/5 Average Rating : 4.50 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 4
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (2)
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John Hogge
Rock (Sport)
G
4 Bolts + Anchors
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11d
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 3.00/5
  Rock Quality 3.00/5
  Scenery 4.00/5
  Fun Factor 5.00/5

Description:

Route ends pulling a roof. A bit chossy in some areas. Need more opinions on whether this is 11d or 12a.

Submitted by: ferriskil on 2012-04-04
Last Modified: 2013-10-25
Views: 351
Route ID: 110948

2 Ascents Recorded

GoRecord an ascent

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11d
  Safety Rating G
Red Point Red Point ascent by: kvochatzer on 2013-10-01 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars RP on roping up a third time

Very nice set of moves and problems lead to steep but very featured top half. Enjoyable route!

somewhere in the 11d +/- range

John, it's funny that you were trying to figure out if it was 11d or 12a when we were on it, yet your FA lists it as 11c... :P

Ha! now you changed it!

Added: 2013-10-02

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.12a
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: Hogge on 2012-01-01 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars wild movement & holds

No inverted fall potential, but this does zigzag reminiscent of Backflip. Clean falls--led this barefoot after the FA and felt very comfortable on it.

Beta spoiler..loved the hold shapes, complexity of using them (e.g. sprag index finger on the undercling; hit the hueco shallow, not deep) and a stylish drop-knee clip. Not a short route, but on top of that there are alot of moves.

(cruxes are 1st moves, clipping #2, pain (the moon & RH big pocket finger jug), and correct beta to deadpoint & dropknee. Full beta:

Match upper of two crimps or RH on lower crimp.
RH right side thin slot flake with the small amount of cement reinforcement.
LH brown jug with tons of cement reinforcement.
RF high to big crimp under the starting holds
RH choss flake sidepull.
Switch feet on crimp, then RF far right curvy ledge below scar.
LH bump sidepull.
RH choss flake/horn (good crimp above white lycon right of the horn)
LH grab the horn for short rest.
LH clip #2 (hard).
LH undercling, spragging the index finger
RH sidepull middle of the moon.
LF backstep blob under bolt #2 to clip #3.
LH sidepull blocky sloper or paper-thin pocket.
Option 1
RH big pocket but hit it shallow; itís a finger jug there; deep itís a sucky scoop.
Feet up on 2 knobs on horizontal white lycon band. (RF is top of previous undercling.)
Sag down and right; swing up and left deadpoint LH jug pocket.
Option 2
LH high to sloper/crimp.
As with option 1, but body position is under the dyno target to donít sag down/right.
Advantage may be that RH will be cashed; LH works the crimp so dyno may be easier on the RH.

Bad steep feet, so RF dropknee and match to RH pocket; clip #4.
RH flake jug. (You can lunge, or static by pressing the dropknee.)
LH invisible jug under and slightly left of left anchor; clip anchors.


Added: 2012-04-11