Routes : North America : United States : Texas : South Central Texas : North Shore : Undead Cats Wall : The Vo-schnoz-er
The Vo-schnoz-er - 5.11b
Average Rating : 4.00 out of 5Route sequence (left to right): 30
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (6)
Premier Sponsor:
Karl Vochatzer, Aaron Denton
Rock (Sport)
G
1
4 bolts
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Description:
Starts on the nose shaped tufa that exactly resembles Karl's nose. Noted as the "Pontufacator" application in the guidebook. Grade is t.b.d. ranging 5.11b-c. Top out is likely 5.12-.Descent Options:
Lower off sport clip anchors or top out for extra fun!
Submitted by: Hogge on 2012-06-01
Last Modified: 2014-02-14
Views: 954
Route ID: 111560
6 Ascents Recorded
Record an ascent
Read all 6 ascent notes
Ratings | |
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Difficulty | 5.11b |
Safety Rating | G |
Exposure | |
Rock Quality | |
Scenery | |
Fun Factor |
Red Point ascent by: Hogge on 2013-11-20
(View Climbing Log)
Unique and fun
Time to downgrade to agree with the 11b opinions. Beta spoilers follow: kind of hard start. its a nice endurance route all the way through clipping both anchors. Easier than another endu route, The Stain. Also easier than MR's Insane Whisperings. Your grading should assume a bit of beta on the start: preset left foot on a microledge under the roof. Start hands on what you can reach right of the tufa and snatch the right block jug. Fun pumpy anchor clip has to be executed without hesitation. Grade is maybe 11a start plus pump anchor clip.
Added: 2013-11-20
Ratings | |
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Difficulty | 5.11b |
Safety Rating | G |
Red Point ascent by: ematter on 2013-04-28
(View Climbing Log)
Vo-schnoz-er
Fun pumpy route that's not straight forward in terms of route reading. Being short it was hard for me to pull off the deck. Maybe a hard 11b.
Added: 2013-06-29
Ratings | |
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Difficulty | 5.11b |
Safety Rating | G |
Exposure | |
Rock Quality | |
Scenery | |
Fun Factor |
Flash ascent by: jb2100 on 2012-09-01
(View Climbing Log)
Not bad
Pretty big holds, a few big moves. Hardest move is clipping the chains. Hard 11a or softer 11b IMO.
Added: 2012-09-01
Ratings | |
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Difficulty | 5.11c |
Safety Rating | G |
Red Point ascent by: annette on 2012-07-05
(View Climbing Log)
Hard start
Difficult start...can be started a variety of ways, I pull the crimp around the left side of the nose. The finish is committing.
Added: 2012-08-05
Ratings | |
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Difficulty | 5.11b |
Safety Rating | G |
Red Point ascent by: kvochatzer on 2012-05-12
(View Climbing Log)
That's no tufa, that's my schnoz!
FA on the route. Aaron Denton did some dirty work on the bolting while teaching him the ropes on route development.
Hard start to snag the small shelf to the right of the schnoz, once it's snagged just manage the pump to the slot right of the last bolt, then shoot for the ledge right of the anchors, traverse a move or two and clip them.
Height will help on the start and finish.
The 5.10+ grade in John's guide book was likely an eye-balled guess by the original applicant of this line when the app was submitted. Based on the fact that there were bowling ball sized rocks teetering on the top of the line, I suspect no one actually climbed the line prior to Aaron and I developing it.
Hard start to snag the small shelf to the right of the schnoz, once it's snagged just manage the pump to the slot right of the last bolt, then shoot for the ledge right of the anchors, traverse a move or two and clip them.
Height will help on the start and finish.
The 5.10+ grade in John's guide book was likely an eye-balled guess by the original applicant of this line when the app was submitted. Based on the fact that there were bowling ball sized rocks teetering on the top of the line, I suspect no one actually climbed the line prior to Aaron and I developing it.
Added: 2012-08-05