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The Vo-schnoz-er - 5.11b

Average Rating = 4.00/5 Average Rating : 4.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 30
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (6)
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Karl Vochatzer, Aaron Denton
Rock (Sport)
G
1
4 bolts
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11b
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 3.50/5
  Rock Quality 4.00/5
  Scenery 3.00/5
  Fun Factor 3.50/5

Description:

Starts on the nose shaped tufa that exactly resembles Karl's nose. Noted as the "Pontufacator" application in the guidebook. Grade is t.b.d. ranging 5.11b-c. Top out is likely 5.12-.

Descent Options:

Lower off sport clip anchors or top out for extra fun!

Submitted by: Hogge on 2012-06-01
Last Modified: 2014-02-14
Views: 528
Route ID: 111560

6 Ascents Recorded

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GoRead all 6 ascent notes

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11b
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: Hogge on 2013-11-20 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Unique and fun

Time to downgrade to agree with the 11b opinions. Beta spoilers follow: kind of hard start. its a nice endurance route all the way through clipping both anchors. Easier than another endu route, The Stain. Also easier than MR's Insane Whisperings. Your grading should assume a bit of beta on the start: preset left foot on a microledge under the roof. Start hands on what you can reach right of the tufa and snatch the right block jug. Fun pumpy anchor clip has to be executed without hesitation. Grade is maybe 11a start plus pump anchor clip.

Added: 2013-11-20

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11b
  Safety Rating G
Red Point Red Point ascent by: ematter on 2013-04-28 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Vo-schnoz-er

Fun pumpy route that's not straight forward in terms of route reading. Being short it was hard for me to pull off the deck. Maybe a hard 11b.

Added: 2013-06-29

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11b
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Flash Flash ascent by: jb2100 on 2012-09-01 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Not bad

Pretty big holds, a few big moves. Hardest move is clipping the chains. Hard 11a or softer 11b IMO.

Added: 2012-09-01

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11c
  Safety Rating G
Red Point Red Point ascent by: annette on 2012-07-05 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Hard start

Difficult start...can be started a variety of ways, I pull the crimp around the left side of the nose. The finish is committing.

Added: 2012-08-05

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11b
  Safety Rating G
Red Point Red Point ascent by: kvochatzer on 2012-05-12 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars That's no tufa, that's my schnoz!

FA on the route. Aaron Denton did some dirty work on the bolting while teaching him the ropes on route development.

Hard start to snag the small shelf to the right of the schnoz, once it's snagged just manage the pump to the slot right of the last bolt, then shoot for the ledge right of the anchors, traverse a move or two and clip them.

Hard 11b or easy 11c. Height will help on the start and finish.

The 5.10+ grade in John's guide book was likely an eye-balled guess by the original applicant of this line when the app was submitted. Based on the fact that there were bowling ball sized rocks teetering on the top of the line, I suspect no one actually climbed the line prior to Aaron and I developing it.

Added: 2012-08-05

... Read all 6 ascent notes