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Unfinished Monkey Business - 5.11c

Average Rating = 4.50/5 Average Rating : 4.50 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 32
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (4)
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karl vochatzer
Rock (Sport)
G
4 Bolts + Anchors
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11b
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 4.00/5
  Rock Quality 4.00/5
  Scenery 3.00/5
  Fun Factor 5.00/5

Description:

starts left and goes up slanting right to the baseball-sized pocket then up from there past a softball-sized one to smooth ledges and holds on either side of the anchor bolts at the top of the crag. 2012OCT21: A climber broke a big hold at the start that used to be part of a hand ladder. The grade should be no different, but the beta changes a bit moving past this scar now.

Submitted by: ferriskil on 2012-04-04
Last Modified: 2013-02-19
Views: 448
Route ID: 110956

4 Ascents Recorded

GoRecord an ascent

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11c
  Safety Rating G
Red Point Red Point ascent by: ematter on 2013-04-21 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars UMB

Fun route. Broken sidepull at the start made the beta different at least. Manage the pump to the anchors.

Added: 2013-06-29

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11a
  Safety Rating G
Flash Flash ascent by: ericq99 on 2013-04-20 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars great

fun route! felt 11a or soft 11b (concurred by partner's onsight)

Added: 2013-04-20

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
Red Point Red Point ascent by: annette on 2012-07-05 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars LOVE IT!

I really love this route, the movement is so natural. You seem to be just flowing along and then you hit the section where you are no longer traversing but going vertically up and the pump hits you...great, fun climb

Added: 2012-08-05

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11c
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: kvochatzer on 2009-11-01 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars I developed it...

This is one of my favorite climbs because of the movement on the serpentine natural line that goes up the cliff. When this phase of NS opened in early 2009 I spotted the alignment of 2 holes (softball and baseball sized) preceded by a sausage-shaped pocket below them. I knew there was a line, it just wasn't a straight line below them (I even had 5.13 specialist Long Ta give it a direct try, but it even shut him down). The natural line starts in a sequence of pockets off the deck and moves right to a flake then diagonally right again to the pocket alignment mentioned above.

The name comes a few factors: 1) It took a long time to develop since I installed anchors in early summer but it proved to be too hot, still and muggy to complete until well into autumn. 2) I felt like I was making monkeying moves up the wall. 3) I really like Ian Brown's album of the same name.

Added: 2012-04-11