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variation: Right Paw - 5.12a

Average Rating = 4.00/5 Average Rating : 4.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 34
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (1)
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Emily Matter
Rock (Sport)
stick clip bolt 1 and 2 of Hello Netherkitty. Uses all its bolts and anchors
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.12a
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 4.00/5
  Rock Quality 3.00/5
  Scenery 3.00/5
  Fun Factor 4.00/5


Hello Netherkitty's 1st and 2nd bolts were placed between two alternative starts (the "left paw" and "right paw") for the route. HN's grade assumes you start the Left Paw (3' left of bolt 1) and can do the huck. Assuming you can do the huck, the Right Paw (starting 3' right of bolt 1) is harder, possible 12b but set at 12a for now. See Emily's comments on her Netherkitty ascent. The Right Paw is a fight through nine hand movements to reach the Left Paw's huck target.

Submitted by: Hogge on 2013-08-12
Views: 389
Route ID: 114265

1 Ascent Recorded

GoRecord an ascent

  Difficulty 5.12a
  Safety Rating G
  Rock Quality
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: ematter on 2013-08-08 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Right paw

So Hello Netherkitty! is the right path of the boltline to the right of Unfinished Monkey Business. John and I were on the route the other day and he got on it. It's basically 3 big dead points, though the last can be static. He tried to get me on it and I was like, "no way, I don't huck". So I ended up doing a variation that follows the same right-path boltline but all goes static and definitely at a grade harder than 11c. But it's STATIC!

Starts on awesome edges about 3 feet right of bolt 1 in some broken rock. Gets into this tough double undercling and ends up at the flake by bolt 2 that you'd dead point to in the other version. Dubbed the "right paw" (think kitty and freedom fries) it's about 9 hand moves compared to the 1 giant move. Then the route goes up the right side of bolt 3 and the perma (whereas the other, Left Paw, deadpoint is left of bolt 3 and the perma). There are some small pockets/edges that you can use in this area which make it more static (though it's still a committing semi-dead point).

Pretty fun alternative if you look up at the flake and decide you can't get there in 1 move. Could be 12a but would need more grade confirmation - felt harder than all the 11d's I've done. Would appreciate more grade consensus. The bottom felt hard and the top felt a bit scary and the semi-dead point was inconsistent.

Added: 2013-08-12