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Short Term Memory Loss - 5.11c

Average Rating = 4.00/5 Average Rating : 4.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 7
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (6)
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Rick Watson
Rock
4 bolts to anchors
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11c
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure 5.00/5
  Rock Quality 5.00/5
  Scenery 4.00/5
  Fun Factor 5.00/5

Description:

Start using first bolt of Wife in the fast lane, Excellent position.

Submitted by: duracellbunny on 2004-03-08
Views: 721
Route ID: 34043

6 Ascents Recorded

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Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11c
  Safety Rating G
Red Point Red Point ascent by: ematter on 2015-03-14 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars Started this from the boulder...

Well, I didn't start this from the ground but rather the wife boulder start. Climbed this on a day crank was soaking but this was fairly dry. Several people climbed it and we didn't know what it was or rated but guessed 11c (off the boulder). Will need to try a ground start, but perhaps crux is up top and didn't change the grade. A bit spacious to bolt 3 but likely wont fall. Pretty good route, but some holds are kind of pokey. Reminds me of Stranglehold but a number grade easier.

Added: 2015-03-18

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11c
  Safety Rating R
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Hang Dog Hang Dog ascent by: Hogge on 2010-12-14 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Excellent route with bad-fall runout you'll probably not fall on.

Excellent, sustained route. Crank gets the traffic but (IMO) traffic should split evenly between Crank and this route.

Bolt 1 is shared with Wife; unnecessary runout from bolt 2 to bolt 3 over an ankle-breaker ledge. But you probably won't fall high up on that runout. The the bolt 3 clip is committed on a decent sloper.

Rick says the route starts on the ground (not the boulder).

Added: 2010-12-15

Ratings
  Difficulty
Red Point Red Point ascent by: 512mglass on 2006-07-19 (View Climbing Log)

0 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

No comment

Added: 2006-07-19

Ratings
  Difficulty
Top Rope Top Rope ascent by: duracellbunny on 2003-06-01 (View Climbing Log)

0 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

Updated

Added: 2003-06-01

Ratings
  Difficulty
Red Point Red Point ascent by: dilligaf on 2002-11-16 (View Climbing Log)

0 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

No comment

Added: 2002-11-16

... Read all 6 ascent notes