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Burning Sensations - 5.11a

Average Rating = 4.00/5 Average Rating : 4.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 4
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (2)
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John Hogge
Rock (Sport)
G
1
5 bolts and anchors. Stick clip bolt 2 (see below).
40
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10d
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 4.00/5
  Rock Quality 3.00/5
  Scenery 3.50/5
  Fun Factor 4.00/5

Description:

Climbs 4 bolts directly under Bastard in the Brothel, to Bastard's bolt 5 and anchors. Stick clip bolt 2 while the low holds are stressed. This route has some nice low moves, but alot of the value is getting people on the fun upper section of Bastards without having to contend with traffic on Jade. The bottom area was cleaned lightly to expose a few good footholds. I'll probably clean more over time, as there's a shortage of right footholds.

Submitted by: Hogge on 2012-05-31
Last Modified: 2012-06-01
Views: 494
Route ID: 111554

Most Recent Photo

2 Ascents Recorded

GoRecord an ascent

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10d
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Flash Flash ascent by: jb2100 on 2012-09-02 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars Aha!

I thought this was just called "Bastard Direct" for some reason. Easier than Bastard.

Added: 2012-09-03

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11a
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: Hogge on 2012-05-30 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars FA and a quadruple entendre

Alot of route names are puns; some are double entendres. I put the working name "Burning Sensations" on the application for this route--a double entendre for forarm pump plus a reference to Syphilis which brings companion route "Bastards in the Brothel" into the House of Pain wall's theme of pain.

By the day of bolting, the name acquired two more entendres: 3. I was suffering from some sunburn the previous weekend.
4. After bolting and failing on the first FA attempt, I was real tired. As I sat there trying to rest, I felt more and more tired. Then Tyler Beattie fed me some hot Wasabi-infused edamame. Zing! I was revived and sent it. WASABI!!!!!

Added: 2012-05-31