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Spanish Fly - 5.12c

Average Rating = 4.50/5 Average Rating : 4.50 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 9
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (6)
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Rock
G
5 bolts
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.12b
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 2.00/5
  Rock Quality 3.00/5
  Scenery 2.00/5
  Fun Factor 4.00/5

Description:

Climb jugular overhang to face above.

Submitted by: drdeath on 2004-08-04
Last Modified: 2012-06-01
Views: 595
Route ID: 641

6 Ascents Recorded

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Ratings
  Difficulty 5.12b
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: jb2100 on 2013-01-27 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars 12c/b/a

This route could go as easy as 12a like Nosferatu said if you're tall enough to do the crux move fairly static. This route really only has 2 difficult moves on it, the first requires some power going to a 3 finger pocket but a nice heel/toe cam reduces the power needed and makes it possible to go to it static quite easily. The second hard move comes right after and is a long move to a good hold which I can see being easy for someone with a long reach. I'm 5'10" with a 5'8" wingspan and I had to jump to reach the hold. Even though it's a good hold it's easy to not hit it in a good spot and slide off. I probably did that move 10 times before I stuck it but once I did I climbed it to the top. Only about 11a after finishing that move. Needless to say your wingspan will determine how difficult this route is for you.

EDIT: Sent it again dry a few weeks ago and then again while wet for the 2013 Limestoner and it felt quite a bit harder when wet. Felt like a 12c when wet but quite soft when dry. Changing my opinion to 12b.

Added: 2013-01-27

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.12a
  Safety Rating G
Flash Flash ascent by: nosferatu87 on 2011-02-13 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Fun

Long moves, but I'm 6'4" so the 12c part was most certainly not a crux for me.

Added: 2011-02-14

Ratings
  Difficulty
Red Point Red Point ascent by: felimonh on 2006-02-04 (View Climbing Log)

0 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

Great route! Needs more ascents!

Witnessed by: H
Added: 2006-02-04

Ratings
  Difficulty
Red Point Red Point ascent by: dilligaf on 2004-09-04 (View Climbing Log)

0 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

Awesome route.

Added: 2004-09-04

Ratings
  Difficulty
Red Point Red Point ascent by: eljefe on 2003-10-06 (View Climbing Log)

0 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

No comment

Added: 2003-10-06

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