Skip to Content

T-Roofic's Big Brother - 5.12c

Average Rating = 4.50/5 Average Rating : 4.50 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 6
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (2)
Premier Sponsor:
Jason Syesta
Rock (Sport)
G
1
5 bolts (including 2 perma draws); chains with sport anchors
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.12c
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure 3.50/5
  Rock Quality 3.00/5
  Scenery 3.50/5
  Fun Factor 4.50/5

Description:

Located under the big roof to the left of T-Roofic Detour. This route was developed by Tommy Blackwell with help from Dane Bass, Kita Bass, Luke Bowman, Ryan Jackson, Evan Jackson, Sean O'Grady, Neil Higa and of course Jason Syesta.

Submitted by: Hogge on 2008-05-21
Last Modified: 2011-02-01
Views: 749
Route ID: 93854

2 Ascents Recorded

GoRecord an ascent

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.12c
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: jb2100 on 2015-02-08 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Unique, awesome dyno

Things have definitely broken since Long's ascent. I heard from a local today that there was a decent juggy hold at the start of the route. That no longer exists, it's now just small sharp pockets. This thing as it sits is like a hard V5 or soft V6 boulder problem to a crazy dyno which you get bonus points for sticking and holding the swing with only one hand. From there pull a few reachy moves to get your feet over the ledge and the route is pretty much over. Took about 5 attempts to send. I think this is probably harder than any of the other 12c's I've done, but not quite hard enough to warrant 12d. This is also the first time I've done 12c in a day so I think that is a good enough argument that it's not 12d. Watch the trees below if you fall going for the dyno or topping out, don't want to get impaled.

Added: 2015-02-08

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.12b
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: mandryd on 2009-03-27 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars fun

bouldery start on some pockets. then get the good edge and make the big throw. once you stick that you're basically done.

not very many people have climbed this route so some of the choss is breaking off. however, all the hand holds are bomber.

Added: 2009-03-27