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All Hail Broke Loose - 5.12a

Average Rating = 4.00/5 Average Rating : 4.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 2
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (4)
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Karl Vochatzer
Rock (Sport)
G
1
4 bolts plus 2 chain anchors
40
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11d
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 3.67/5
  Rock Quality 3.33/5
  Scenery 3.33/5
  Fun Factor 4.00/5

Description:

Negative start off the deck onto a sequence of very thin finger pad crimps all under bolt 1 (first crux). Climbing is easier through #2 and #3 bolts, and not bad to #4. Get a rest somewhere in these areas because the finale to the chain anchors is challenging through thin fingers in shallow pockets and tiny pinches (second crux). You'll need to find feet from #4 to the anchors to get the send. Full climb is just on the negative side of vertical by a couple of feet. __________________ UPDATE April 9, 2011: Well, it didn't take long to get some traffic on this route. Some serious cleaning happened yesterday that resulted in a very physical larger climber cleaning off no less than 4 holds over the entire climb - two of them were key at the top. The result has made the finish harder than the start. From the last bolt to the chains you must find whatever feet you can during a couple of long reaches off the shallow two-finger pad pockets.

Submitted by: kvochatzer on 2011-04-01
Last Modified: 2011-05-03
Views: 569
Route ID: 108279

4 Ascents Recorded

GoRecord an ascent

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11d
  Safety Rating G
Red Point Red Point ascent by: ematter on 2013-04-06 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars All Hail Broke Loose

The bottom of this route (pulling off the deck) had given me trouble the first time I was on it. I skipped it and made it to the top without any trouble. There is a sweet rest to the left that used to be covered with poison ivy. Definitely reduces the pump factor.

On the day of the 2013 limestoner, after I had done 2 5.11d's and 4 5.12a's (and fallen on a 5th 12a), I got on this route to retrieve some gear. I had no expectations but somehow I managed to pull the bottom moves that I couldn't do a few weeks before. Not sure what was different but it felt smooth and I sailed to the top to clip the chains. The top holds are hard to see when it's sunny, helpful to identify the good pockets beforehand so you aren't hanging around trying to find them at the chains.

Added: 2013-06-28

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11d
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: jb2100 on 2013-05-12 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars *

Finger intensive but since it's pretty vertical and feet are pretty good it doesn't seem too tough for a 12a. Onsighted 95% of the route after falling once on the second move. Tried again and sent the whole thing. Though it takes a fair bit of finger strength to hold onto those little pockets it's not as tiring as Jade or Yertle. Personally think it's 11d.

Added: 2013-05-15

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.12a
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: annette on 2011-04-23 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Thin Climbing

This is a great addition to Reimer's Ranch. There is a pretty hard start and then a sketchy, scary crux at the top. It is an exciting and fun route. A must do if you are at Reimer's.

Added: 2012-01-17

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11d
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: kvochatzer on 2011-04-01 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars First Ascent...

Named when a flash thunderstorm pelted me with rain and hail as I put up the anchors one Saturday late in March. Not wanting to miss my chance to use Dave and John's already tied in static line to trees over top, I set the anchors in the rain and as I topped out got hit with some small hail again. It was such a beautiful day that day until all hail broke loose from the sky.
_________

Side note:
There's a renaissance going on at Reimer's at the wall to either side of Natural (AKA - Sunday Mass). Five new climbs have been put up between Pearl on the left and Ant Encounters on the right. This is my third route developed in this area that had been left fallow all these years at RR. Please get out on them and log your results and opinions.

I'd like to dub this section of previously passed over wall the "Revival Wall" or "Renaissance Wall". Many times recently a dozen people have been climbing in this section with no one on Jade to the left and no one on Crank to the right. Local climber "Pete" once said "Who moved Crankenstein?" when he ventured over and so many people exploring the new routes.

Added: 2011-04-01