Skip to Content

Routes : North America : United States : Texas : South Central Texas : Reimers Ranch : War On Rugs Wall : VARIATION: How to Counter Your Apprehension

VARIATION: How to Counter Your Apprehension - 5.10a

Average Rating = 4.50/5 Average Rating : 4.50 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 10
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (2)
Premier Sponsor:
Karl Vochatzer
Rock (Sport)
G
1
5-6 bolts plus chain anchors
40
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10a
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 4.00/5
  Rock Quality 4.00/5
  Scenery 3.00/5
  Fun Factor 4.50/5

Description:

By-pass the thin crimp off the deck start of Apprehension by using the deep pocket hueco at the start of Ant Encounters to the right. Move diagonally to the left toward the first bolt of Apprehension (optionally clipping #1 of Ant Encounters with a long draw on both routes' first bolts). Then ascend the remainder of Apprehension. This likely only leaves the lesser crux mantle move around bolt #4 for a 5.10a-ish move depending on your height.

Submitted by: kvochatzer on 2011-01-02
Last Modified: 2011-03-31
Views: 597
Route ID: 107587

2 Ascents Recorded

GoRecord an ascent

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10a
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Top Rope Top Rope ascent by: Hogge on 2011-01-02 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars FIVE NINE!!!!!!!!

That's what I yelled after TRing. But it's maybe 5.9+ TRing and definitely 5.10a by the time you make clips on lead. Still the healthiest warmup on the south--Die Hard is a good route but not a good warmup. Two others (one big, one small) confirmed 10a.

Added: 2011-01-03

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10a
  Safety Rating G
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: kvochatzer on 2011-01-01 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars eliminate the lower crux to Apprehension

John Hogge and I desiring a 5.9-ish climb between Mai Tai Wall and Crankenstein (which only has Back Off Crack at a one-bolt trad 5.9 climb).

Even though this by-passes the crux start of 5.10b/c, I feel that the upper crux to Apprehension, and hence this variation, is likely still a 5.10a move.

Added: 2011-01-02