Average Rating : 4.25 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 9
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (4)
5 draws and 1 fixed biner on a chain
Access by crawling under the first boulder jammed between the two cliffs. Starts between that and the next big boulder jamming the cliffs. Belayer sits low with feet on stacked boulders, back against the ledge, and clips into the hanger there. (This allows traffic to pass behind the belayer.) Climber pulls on a jug to belayer's right, onto a ledge, and then up and left. There it looks like 5.11,but the trick beta makes it light pulling and resultsin teh 5.10a grade. Shares anchors with toprope route #9 and its permanent toprope. Just clip your rope into the supershut anchors and let it lay on top of the locking biners that are holding the toprope, then lower.
Submitted by: Hogge on 2007-12-13
Route ID: 90863
The crux looked like 5.10a while bolting on rappel, then weeks later on lead it was a different story. Noone wants to move left off that ledge, despite good protection; it's weirdly intimidating or something. The crux is a rare beauty where without the move it's looking 5.11+, and with the move you barely require any muscle, just balance and stretch. Only a couple climbers have read the crux quickly; everyone else turns a short route into a long study.