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Goats and Cattle - 5.11c

Average Rating = 5.00/5 Average Rating : 5.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 7
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (1)
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John Hogge
Rock (Sport)
PG13
1
1 bolt up the ledge; 3 permadraws up the arete; 4 permadraws arcing up and right to anchors out of sight
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11c
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure 5.00/5
  Rock Quality 5.00/5
  Scenery 5.00/5
  Fun Factor 5.00/5

Description:

See Protection. The Spider Grind of North Shore, except the start is a bitch. Unclean fall potential. Bolt 1 gains the ledge. Climb 3 permadraws up the arete, then head up and right on 4 permadraws along the cliff top to Dreamland's anchors out of sight. (A variation GO TO HELL, same grade, pulls rightwards onto the wave for a rest, then comes back on higher holds.) History: first the arete was bolted as Lenora Reimers Turkey Call to anchors at the cliff top. Then Goats and Cattle was bolted as a traversing extension. Later there was CTM interest in reducing unnecessary permadraws. I thought in this case it better to just eliminate the anchors at the top of the arete (eliminating L.R. Turkey Call)since it was a short route and the dominant line continues up and right.

Submitted by: Hogge on 2012-04-15
Last Modified: 2014-06-08
Views: 163
Route ID: 111100

1 Ascent Recorded

GoRecord an ascent

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11c
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: Hogge on 2008-12-01 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars traverse over pretty wave

Tricky arete to a pumpy, somewhat hard-to-read jug/sloper fest. Funny that this type of route is near the exit, when Spider Grind is also near the Reimers exit. But the start is a whole bunch harder than Spider Grind's start. Maybe this route will become alot of people's final burn at North Shore. Shade is possible late in the day, depending on the year. Beta spoiler: The favorite move I recall on this route is a right dropknee to clip the last permadraw on the arete.

Added: 2012-04-15