| Safety Rating
| Rock Quality
| Fun Factor
roof is easier than it looks. fun trick move, excellent face holds
The starting boulder problem up the ledge is low quality, so feel free to skip it.
I loved every move and every hold up the rest. Beta spoilers....it offered up an "action match", hands over the roof, right foot over right hand, release right hand and foot pounds down on the jug shelf. Maybe it can be done smoother with rolling, but the slam is what worked for me.
Loved the double knee scrums just over the roof to set up teh deadpoint. Felt like levitation. Here are my beta notes:
Protected boulder problem mantle to gain the ledge: trust the bad looking LF just above the roof.
Pinch the flake or 2pocket to clip #2 (or pass up a stick clip).
RH horn, LH crimp under bolt #2 (optional) to guide LH to invisible diagonal (pinky up/index down) 3pocket left & slightly above bolt.
LF pocket on right wall of mild arch in ceiling.
RF above RH; heel hook action-match (release RH to match RF heel hook).
(optional) RH nubbin just right of LH or cross to sloper.
RH 12” above LH to good diagonal block.
LH nearby horizontal slot
LH 2pocket above and left of RH.
Various footwork options to get both feet on the headwall: RF beginning “guide” crimp, or float the LF in front of you, then RF to divot, or whatever. The hands seem great, leaving options.
LH snatch brown jug; RH match; clip.
LH marginal jug right edge of hueco 2.5’ left of bolt #3; Clip.
Lean left; RH sloper left edge of same hueco.
LH pinch pocket and left side of same hueco.
RF brown jug?; LF left on grey blob above mini-roof and plants.
LH deadpoint high to point on ledge centered under hueco 2.5’ left of bolt #4.
RH right side of same hueco; LH jug on left side of same hueco; RF toe previous hueco (now invisible); Clip.
RH diagonal sloper edge (optional).
LF really high left little ledge.
LH high to totally invisible semi-jug pocket right of the big bad hueco. Expect weak feeling, but next RH is great.
RH far right past good looking features to white lycon jug horn on right side of the dihedral right of the permadraw; clip.
LH massive cavelette edge jug; the rest is easy.