| Safety Rating
| Rock Quality
| Fun Factor
roof is easier than it looks. fun trick move, excellent face holds
The starting boulder problem up the ledge is low quality, so feel free to skip it. Every hold on the main route is lovable.
The route's huecos and fun roof pull make it one of the most fun and dramatic routes I've done.
Beta: [updated from recent runs]
Protected boulder problem mantle to gain the ledge: trust the bad looking LF just above the roof.
Pinch the flake or 2pocket to clip #2 (or pass up a stick clip).
RH horn, LH crimp under bolt #2 (optional) to guide LH to very reachy invisible diagonal (pinky up/index down) 3pocket left & slightly above bolt. [shorter people can match the horn and get both feet on a brown jug flake right of this next LF.]
LF pocket on right wall of mild arch in ceiling.
Dramatic beta here:
Move RF up left of right arm and onto RH to prepare to match. I originally "action matched" by letting go of the RH to drop RF onto the horn, but it's easier to splay fingers like Spock's "live long and prosper" either when you initially grip the horn, or when the heel is resting on the fingers. The heel tension and your finger power easily separates the fingers. The result is the heel rests on the horn. Minor crux is doing this while body is swinging.
(optional) RH nubbin just right of LH or cross to sloper.
RH 12” above LH to good diagonal block.
LH nearby horizontal slot
LH 2pocket above and left of RH.
Various footwork options to get both feet on the headwall: RF beginning “guide” crimp, or float the LF in front of you, then RF to divot, or whatever. The hands seem great, leaving options.
LH snatch brown jug; RH match; clip.
LH marginal jug right edge of hueco 2.5’ left of bolt #3; Clip.
Lean left; RH sloper left edge of same hueco.
LH pinch pocket and left side of same hueco.
RF brown jug?; LF left on grey blob above mini-roof and plants.
LH deadpoint high to point on ledge centered under hueco 2.5’ left of bolt #4.
RH right side of same hueco; LH jug on left side of same hueco; RF toe previous hueco (now invisible); Clip.
RH diagonal sloper edge (optional).
LF really high left little ledge.
LH high to totally invisible semi-jug pocket right of the big bad hueco; hit its right edge and lean right. Expect weak feeling, but next RH is great.
RF upside-down toe hook match RH. (Alternate beta: RH up before LH, RF smears or something.)
RH far right past good looking features to white lycon jug horn on right side of the dihedral right of the permadraw; clip.
LH massive cavelette edge jug; the rest is easy.