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Pollution / Erosion - 5.12b

Average Rating = 3.67/5 Average Rating : 3.67 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 10
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (3)
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Long Ta, bb John Hogge
Rock (Sport)
G
1
5 bolts + 1 permadraw
1
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.12b
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 4.00/5
  Rock Quality 2.67/5
  Scenery 3.67/5
  Fun Factor 3.67/5

Description:

just left of the easy-to-identify Fangoria (with its nose tufa). uses Pave the World's starting hold (a reachy rounded or flat jug-sloper, invisible from the ground and hard to spot up there, I think). Bolted this with no thoughts of ever sending, but it and its high permadraw were part of the master plan of Lenora's Wrath Kept 'em Lawful, Global Warming, Pave the World, and the two variations on GW/PtW. Long broke holds 3 times working it and on the FA, and so he tacked "Erosion" onto the working name "Pollution". I've been up on it long after his send and felt, no way, how do you even use your feet on the crux. How!?!?! Luke Bowman was on the routes committee, elected for something like 7 or more consecutive years. After the committee's rubber-stamping route-application mode of '08-early 09' when North Shore first opened, Luke's no-voting became epic. Eventually Dave Phillips began calling him "Dr. NO", and it was a source of irritation for some of us. But his NO worked some magic on the above master plan. The first plan had more crowded alignment for PtW and this route, sending one or the other up the prominent upper roof outcrop. Luke was concerned with this outcrop's detachment. Not really caring that much about PtW and P/E, I folded quickly and resubmitted a plan that moved both to the sides of the outcrop. It's a good thing; both came out better, and I learned alot from PtW. Looking at the topo, PtW could probably have a runout variation (or TR using a Lenora's Wrath permadraw directional) to pull the outcrop's center.

Submitted by: Hogge on 2012-04-12
Last Modified: 2013-04-09
Views: 749
Route ID: 111042

3 Ascents Recorded

GoRecord an ascent

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.12c
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Hang Dog Hang Dog ascent by: cw1242 on 2013-11-02 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars broke a hold off - more to follow undoubtedly

This route seems to have shed quite a bit of holds since its inception. There are many many orange scars along the route. I just wanted to note that this past weekend (11/2/13) the lower left hand juggy crimp that many might have used as a starter hold broke off during my attempt. What is left is a bad crimp with a thumb knob that still allows the route to go but is now made worse for feet once you're above it. The crux now feels extended to around the 2nd bolt instead of being centralized around the 3rd. Crank hard.

Added: 2013-11-04

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.12b
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: mandryd on 2012-09-07 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars I was the FA.

JB 2100 above is probably right with 12a/b. I really had no clue what to rate it cause everything kept crumbling the whole time. Hopefully all the choss is cleaned up now.

Added: 2012-09-07

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.12b
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: jb2100 on 2012-05-02 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars 12c?

Went out to North Shore today without a guidebook, saw this route, thought it looked cool and tried it. Sent on the third try. On the way home I got the guidebook and saw this was listed as 12c. This would make my first 12c send if that is in fact the grade. To be honest I'm not sure, it felt harder than 12a but I've only ever been on Learning to Crawl, and Love Shack, neither of which I've sent and I can't in all honestly say it felt as hard as either of them. I've certainly put much more effort into Learning to Crawl and still haven't sent (though it's only a matter of time). The bottom section of this route is quite difficult and certainly where the grade comes from. However after bolt 4 (bolt 3 if you skip Fangoria's #1) comes the crux move which is essentially a deadpoint to a jug, and after that it's just a jug haul. Perhaps some of the broken holds have made this route easier, or perhaps I've just gotten stronger and it really is 12c (doubtful). Only time and more ascents will tell. It really was an amazing and stellar route. I'm excited to try Fangoria and Pave the World next time I get out there.

Added: 2012-05-02