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Routes : North America : United States : Texas : South Central Texas : North Shore : Insanity Wall : bolted variation: The Airing of Grievances

bolted variation: The Airing of Grievances - 5.11a

Average Rating = 4.50/5 Average Rating : 4.50 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 12
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (2)
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John Hogge
Rock (Sport)
G
1
3 bolts + 3 permadraws
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11a
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 5.00/5
  Rock Quality 4.00/5
  Scenery 5.00/5
  Fun Factor 5.00/5

Description:

Starts Insane Tree Hugger like Festivus does, but it exits the cave straight up to its own anchors.

Submitted by: Hogge on 2012-04-12
Last Modified: 2014-02-18
Views: 325
Route ID: 111046

2 Ascents Recorded

GoRecord an ascent

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11a
  Safety Rating G
Onsight Onsight ascent by: kvochatzer on 2012-09-23 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars a really nice line in itself

I really enjoyed perching in the cave only to come out long enough to clip the last bolt then take cover in the cave again. After a couple of extra shakes I flew out of the cave and up the steep terrain to the anchors - all great holds and feet to support them.

A fine climb.

No less difficult than Insane Tree Hugger IMO and on pare with Dave's Not Here.

Added: 2012-09-23

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11a
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: Hogge on 2009-01-01 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars see notes on Festivus

The roof pull is a bit easier than that of Festivus, even though it's dramatically steep. Not sure why people prefer Tree Hugger with this cave and bitching roof!

The guidebook mentions six different airings of grievances that occurred during North Shore development. One surrounded an unintentional stolen FA. One was between developers who were helping each other bolt and do FA's, with strife over who was putting in more time for the other guy. THAT one went badly, (e.g. "You and me are goin' to go around!" "oh I won't go around anywhere, but YOU will get knocked all the way to that RIVER!!"). But the friendships were restored after a couple years. One had to do with distrust among committee members. One's described on my notes about The Ghost of Johnny Reimers. One was about some guys believing lines were going in that weren't climbable by anyone, much less the bolters.

Generally the development experience was great at NS. What a great couple of years.

BETA SPOILERS. Getting to the cave is roughly 10c with proper knee bar rests in the crack. After exiting the cave first time, reaching out to high clip the last bolt fis the crux, probably a 10d-11a clip, even with a sideways right kneebar. Retreat into cave, rest, then it's one sloper ledge, two jug ledges, jug to clip anchors and it goes so fast, probably 5.10a-b. Half a dozen people think 11a, one thinks 10d, I kind of switch my vote to 11a.

Added: 2012-04-12