Routes : North America : United States : Texas : South Central Texas : North Shore : Little Guide's Wall : Live Action
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Live Action - 5.11a updated
Average Rating : 4.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 4
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (2)
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Birddog
Rock (Sport)
G
1
4 bolts and anchors. Runout to bolt 2: advise stick clipping bolt 2.
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Description:
just left of the orange overhanging area. Grade needs more opinions; Birddog had it 10c from toproping before bolting. I see maybe 10d but it's awefully technical for that. There's special beta you should try before entering a grade opinion. SPOILER: work the hands over the roof til left hand is in the hueco. Left foot far left, slightly above the roof. Turn your left palm up and sink your entire freaking arm into the hueco, grabbing the deep jug in there. Work left foot closer under you. Right hand to the slot under the jugs, stand up and clip.
Submitted by: Hogge on 2012-09-11
Last Modified: 2013-05-16
Views: 76
Route ID: 112543
2 Ascents Recorded
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.10d |
| Safety Rating | PG13 |
| Exposure |  |
| Rock Quality | |
| Scenery |  |
| Fun Factor |  |
Red Point ascent by:
"one of the best moves around Austin"
new
Header is AP's quote. For grade opinions you MUST try the beta under the route description. That's the move AP is talking about. Birddog originally thought 10c from toprope runs before bolting. Later I forgot that key beta and thought 11b when Karl and I led it. AP and I did it with the beta recently. She thinks 11a. I took liberty of revising the grade to 11a but think it might be 10d, felt easier than Menopause Mania and comparable to T-Roofic Indirect. The low and high moves are awefully technical, but I'm grading on power.
Added: 2013-05-15
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.11b |
| Safety Rating | G |
Hang Dog ascent by:
beware the mid-day sun over the top
new
hard glare at the anchors if you climb at mid-day. falling at the anchors prior to clipping the rope into them is likely not a good fall at all. wrecking ball.
Added: 2013-05-14
