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Catflip - 5.11c
Average Rating : 5.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 4
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (1)
Premier Sponsor:
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John Hogge
Rock (Sport)
G
4 Bolts + Anchors
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Description:
Route ends pulling a roof. A bit chossy in some areas.
Submitted by: ferriskil on 2012-04-04
Views: 104
Route ID: 110948
1 Ascent Recorded
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.11c |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure |  |
| Rock Quality | |
| Scenery |  |
| Fun Factor |  |
Red Point ascent by:
wild movement & holds
No inverted fall potential, but this does zigzag reminiscent of Backflip. Clean falls--led this barefoot after the FA and felt very comfortable on it.
Beta spoiler..loved the hold shapes, complexity of using them (e.g. sprag index finger on the undercling; hit the hueco shallow, not deep) and a stylish drop-knee clip. Not a short route, but on top of that there are alot of moves.
(cruxes are 1st moves, clipping #2, pain (the moon & RH big pocket finger jug), and correct beta to deadpoint & dropknee. Full beta:
Match upper of two crimps or RH on lower crimp.
RH right side thin slot flake with the small amount of cement reinforcement.
LH brown jug with tons of cement reinforcement.
RF high to big crimp under the starting holds
RH choss flake sidepull.
Switch feet on crimp, then RF far right curvy ledge below scar.
LH bump sidepull.
RH choss flake/horn (good crimp above white lycon right of the horn)
LH grab the horn for short rest.
LH clip #2 (hard).
LH undercling, spragging the index finger
RH sidepull middle of the moon.
LF backstep blob under bolt #2 to clip #3.
LH sidepull blocky sloper or paper-thin pocket.
Option 1
RH big pocket but hit it shallow; it’s a finger jug there; deep it’s a sucky scoop.
Feet up on 2 knobs on horizontal white lycon band. (RF is top of previous undercling.)
Sag down and right; swing up and left deadpoint LH jug pocket.
Option 2
LH high to sloper/crimp.
As with option 1, but body position is under the dyno target to don’t sag down/right.
Advantage may be that RH will be cashed; LH works the crimp so dyno may be easier on the RH.
Bad steep feet, so RF dropknee and match to RH pocket; clip #4.
RH flake jug. (You can lunge, or static by pressing the dropknee.)
LH invisible jug under and slightly left of left anchor; clip anchors.
Beta spoiler..loved the hold shapes, complexity of using them (e.g. sprag index finger on the undercling; hit the hueco shallow, not deep) and a stylish drop-knee clip. Not a short route, but on top of that there are alot of moves.
(cruxes are 1st moves, clipping #2, pain (the moon & RH big pocket finger jug), and correct beta to deadpoint & dropknee. Full beta:
Match upper of two crimps or RH on lower crimp.
RH right side thin slot flake with the small amount of cement reinforcement.
LH brown jug with tons of cement reinforcement.
RF high to big crimp under the starting holds
RH choss flake sidepull.
Switch feet on crimp, then RF far right curvy ledge below scar.
LH bump sidepull.
RH choss flake/horn (good crimp above white lycon right of the horn)
LH grab the horn for short rest.
LH clip #2 (hard).
LH undercling, spragging the index finger
RH sidepull middle of the moon.
LF backstep blob under bolt #2 to clip #3.
LH sidepull blocky sloper or paper-thin pocket.
Option 1
RH big pocket but hit it shallow; it’s a finger jug there; deep it’s a sucky scoop.
Feet up on 2 knobs on horizontal white lycon band. (RF is top of previous undercling.)
Sag down and right; swing up and left deadpoint LH jug pocket.
Option 2
LH high to sloper/crimp.
As with option 1, but body position is under the dyno target to don’t sag down/right.
Advantage may be that RH will be cashed; LH works the crimp so dyno may be easier on the RH.
Bad steep feet, so RF dropknee and match to RH pocket; clip #4.
RH flake jug. (You can lunge, or static by pressing the dropknee.)
LH invisible jug under and slightly left of left anchor; clip anchors.
Added: 2012-04-11
